Sylvania, Emerson and Magnavox 19 inch LCD TV – How to enter service mode, adjustments, initialization and more

Applicable to: Sylvania LC195SLX, Emerson LC195EMX, Magnavox 22MF339B/F7 and many more models of these brands 19 inch LCD TVs.
HOW TO INITIALIZE THE LCD TV

The purpose of initialization is to place the set in a new out of box condition. The customer will be prompted to select a language and program channels after the set has been initialized.
To put the program back at the factory-default, initialize the LCD TV using the following procedure.
1. Turn the power on.
2. To enter the service mode, press the service button on the service remote control unit.
- To cancel the service mode, press [POWER] button on the service remote control unit.
3. Press [INFO] button on the service remote control unit to initialize the LCD television.
4. "INITIALIZED" will appear in the upper right of the screen. "INITIALIZED" color will change to green from red when initializing is complete.

FIRMWARE RENEWAL MODE

Equipment Required

a. USB memory
b. Remote Control Unit

Firmware Update Procedure
Note: There are two states (the User Upgrade and the Factory Upgrade) in firmware update.

The identification of User Upgrade and Factory
Upgrade are done by the filename.
1. Turn the power off and unplug the AC Cord.
2. Insert the USB memory to the USB port.

3. Plug the AC cord in the wall outlet and turn the power on.
4. The update will start and the following will appear on the screen.

“Software upgrade in progress. Please wait.
Do not remove the USB device or turn the TV off while upgrade is in progress”

If the above screen isn’t displayed, repeat from step 1

5. When the firmware update is completed, the screen will be displayed.

Unplug the AC cord and kindly remove the USB memory from the USB port. Plug the AC cord in the wall outlet again and turn the power on.
Note:
When the Factory Upgrade is used, after restarting TV, shift to initial screen menu in service  mode. "INITIALIZED" will appear on the upper right of the screen. "INITIALIZED" color will change to green from red when initializing is complete.

Service mode

Electrical adjustments are required after replacing circuit components and certain mechanical parts. It is important to perform these adjustments only after all repairs and replacements have been completed.  Also, do not attempt these adjustments unless the proper equipment is available.

Test Equipment Required
1. NTSC Pattern Generator (Color Bar W/White Window, Red Color, Dot Pattern, Gray Scale, Monoscope, Multi-Burst)
2. Remote control unit
3. Color Analyzer.

How to make the Service remote control unit:
[LC195SLX, LC195EMX]

Cut “A” portion of the attached remote control unit as shown in Fig.

[22MF339B/F7, 19MF339B/F7]
Cut “A” portion of the attached remote control unit as shown in Fig.

[LC225SSX, LC195SSX]
Cut “A” portion of the attached remote control unit as shown in Fig.

How to set up the service mode:
How to enter the Service mode:
1. Use the service remote control unit.
2. Turn the power on.
3. Press the service button on the service remote control unit. The service mode screen appears.

LC195SLX, LC195EMX, LC195SSX, 19MF339B/F7 – SMPS section schematic

22MF339B/F7, LC225SSX – Back-light inverter schematic

22MF339B/F7, LC225SSX – SMPS section schematic

Purity Check Mode
This mode cycles through full-screen displays of red, green, blue, and white to check for non-active pixels.
1. Enter the Service mode.
2. Each time pressing [7] button on the service remote control unit, the display changes as follows.

VCOM Adjustment

1. Operate the unit for more than 20 minutes.
2. Set the color analyzer and bring the optical receptor to the center on the LCD-Panel surface after zero point calibration.
Note: The optical receptor must be set perpendicularly to the LCD Panel surface.
3. Enter the Service mode.
4. Press [3] button on the service remote control unit.
5. Press [CHANNEL UP/DOWN] buttons on the service remote control unit so that the color analyzer value becomes minimum.

The white balance adjustment should be performed when replacing the LCD Panel or Digital CBA.
3. White Balance Adjustment
Purpose: To mix red, green and blue beams correctly for pure white.
Symptom of Maladjustment: White becomes bluish or reddish.

Operate the unit for more than 20 minutes.
2. Input the White Raster(70%=70IRE, 40%=40IRE).

3. Set the color analyzer to the CHROMA mode and bring the optical receptor to the center on the LCD-Panel surface after zero point calibration.
Note: The optical receptor must be set perpendicularly to the LCD Panel surface.
4. Enter the Service mode. Press [VOLUME DOWN] button on the service remote control unit and select “C/D” mode.

5. [CUTOFF]
Press [1] button to select “COR” for Red Cutoff adjustment. Press [3] button to select “COB” for Blue Cutoff adjustment.
[DRIVE]
Press [4] button to select “DR” for Red Drive adjustment. Press [6] button to select “DB” for Blue Drive adjustment.
6. In each color mode, press [CHANNEL UP/DOWN] buttons to adjust the values of color.

Matrix E5X Elliptical trainer – How to access Manager mode

Matrix E5X Elliptical trainer – How to access Manager mode – How to access to service mode – Elliptical maintenance tips – Console Error code and causes

Matrix E5X: Manager Mode

The Manager's Custom Mode allows the club owner to customize the Elliptical Trainer for the club.
1) To enter Manager Mode, press and hold down the UP and DOWN LEVEL keys. Continue to hold down these two keys until the display reads Manager Mode and hit ENTER.
2) To scroll through the list of options in Manager Mode, use the UP and DOWN LEVEL keys. Each of the custom settings will show on the
display.
3) To select a custom setting, press the ENTER key when the desired setting is shown.
4) To change the value of the setting, use the UP and DOWN LEVEL keys.
5) To confirm and save the value of the setting, press the ENTER key.
6) To exit the setting without saving, press the BACK key.
7) Press and hold the STOP key for 3-5 seconds to return to normal operation.

Engineering / Service Mode

To enter Engineering or Service Mode, hold the UP and DOWN LEVEL keys for 3 seconds until Manager Mode appears on the middle LED
display. Press the UP or DOWN LEVEL key to scroll between the different Engineering
Engineering Mode
Disable errors: Displays the class A and B error codes.
Speed unit: Sets the distance to show in miles or kilometers.
machine type: Should be set for Elliptical Trainer at all times.
Power save time: Sets the amount of time the console keeps the workout information after the completion of a workout.

Service Mode
service 1: Display Test.
service 2: Keypad Test.
service 3: Accumulated Distance and Time.
service 4: CSAFE Test.
service 5: Error Log

Error codes on the console

0x02AB

Machine type error.

Set the correct machine type in Engineering Mode.

0x02B3

Resistance type error.

Set the correct machine type in Engineering Mode.

0x0201

A Low voltage on the battery (voltage under 11.2V).
Charge by running or by plugging in the AC adapter.

0x0247

LCB failed (memory write error / feedback ADC error).
Replace the LCB.

0x0248

Battery failure or disconnection (Voltage under 8V or over 15V).
Check the wire connections at the battery. Replace the battery.

0x0441

When the UCB implements a command, the LCB is not receiving this command.
Check the machine type in Engineering Mode. Check the connections at the UCB and LCB.

0x04A0

Digital Communication Failure.
LCB has no return message for the UCB for 3 seconds.
Check the console cable connections at the UCB and LCB. Replace the UCB or LCB as needed.

0x04B0

UCB No Response. Check the console cable connections at the UCB and
LCB. Replace the UCB or LCB as needed.

Maintenance Tips

Daily maintenance items
1) Look and listen for loose fasteners, unusual noises, and any other indications that the equipment may be in need of service.
2) Clean the elliptical trainer before and after each use, including:
a. Use a damp, soft cloth with water or mild liquid detergent to clean all exposed surfaces. DO NOT use ammonia, chlorine, or any acid based cleaners.
b. Keep the console display free of fingerprints and salt build up caused by sweat.
c. Frequently vacuum the floor beneath the unit to prevent the accumulation of dust and dirt which can affect the smooth operation of the unit.
Monthly maintenance items
1) Inspect the console, handrails, link arms, pedal arms, and pedals for damage.
2) Check the link / pedal arms for loose joints, tighten hardware as needed.
3) Check pedal motion and stability.
4) Adjust leveling feet if the equipment rocks or wobbles.
5) Remove the rear shroud, and clean the rollers / tracks to prevent flat spots caused by dust / dirt.
Quarterly maintenance items
1) Remove the front shrouds and check belts for damage, alignment, and proper tension.

Panasonic DMC-FZ28 – Initializing setting – How to discharge the flash capacitor – How to replace the lithium battery

Panasonic DMC-FZ28: INITIAL SETTINGS PROCEDURES:

 Preparation. Proceed the picture back up from the unit .

 Step 1. The temporary cancellation of initial setting:
Set the REC/PLAY switch to “[ Recording ]”.
Set the mode dial to “[ P ]”.
While keep pressing [ AF macro/Focus button ] and “[ UP ] of Cursor button” simultaneously, turn the Power on.
Step 2. The cancellation of initial setting:
Set the REC/PLAY switch to “[ Playback ]”.
Press [ AF macro/Focus switch ] and “[ UP ] of Cursor button” simultaneously, turn the Power off.
Step 3. Turn the Power on:
Set the REC/PLAY switch to “[Recording]”, turn the Power on.

Step 4. Display the INITIAL SETTING:
While keep pressing [ MENU ] and “[ RIGHT ] of Cursor button” simultaneously, turn the Power off.
When Main PCB/Flash ROM is replaced, all of the model suffix is displayed as follows.
There are two kinds of “INITIAL SETTINGS” menu format.

Step 5. Set the INITIAL SETTING:
The model suffix can be chosen JUST ONE TIME.
Once one of the model suffix have been chosen, the model suffix lists will not be displayed, thus, it can not be changed. Select the area carefully.
Select the area with pressing “[ UP ]/[ DOWN ] of Cursor button”, and then press the “[ RIGHT ] of Cursor button”

The only set area is displayed, and then press the “[ RIGHT ] of Cursor button” after confirmation.
(The unit is powered off automatically.)
Confirm the display of “PLEASE SET THE CLOCK” in English when the unit is turned on again.
Step 6. CONFIRMATION:
The display shows “PLEASE SET THE CLOCK” when turn the Power on again.
When the unit is connected to PC with USB cable, it is detected as removable media.

Error Code Memory Function

How to display
The error code can be displayed by the following procedure:
Before perform the error code memory function, connect the AC adaptor or insert the battery.
(Since this unit has built-in memory, this error code memory function can be performed without inserting SD memory card.)
1. The temporary cancellation of initial setting:
Set the REC/PLAY switch to “[Recording]”.
Set the mode dial to “[ P ]”.
While keep pressing [ AF macro/Focus switch ] and “[ UP ] of Cursor button” simultaneously, turn the Power on.
2. The display of error code:
Press [ AF macro/Focus switch ], [MENU] and “[ LEFT ] of Cursor button” simultaneously with the step 1 condition.
The display is changed as shown below when the above buttons is pressed simultaneously.
Normal display > Error code display > Operation history display > Normal display > .....

3. The change of display:

The error code can be memorized 16 error codes in sequence, however it is displayed 5 errors on the LCD.
Display can be changed by the following procedure:
“[ UP ] or [ DOWN ] of Cursor button” : It can be scroll up or down one.
“[ LEFT ] or [ RIGHT ] of Cursor button” : It can be display last 5 error or another 5 error.
4. How to read the error date:
The error date code is displayed from the left in order at the year, month, day, time.
Error date information is acquired from “Clock setting” information when the error occurs.
When the clock in not setting, it is displayed as “00000000”.

How to Discharge the Capacitor on Main PCB
This unit equipped with two pieces of capacitors as flash charging capacitors.
“Either one of the capacitor discharging operation” makes discharging for others as well.
CAUTION:
1. Be sure to discharge the capacitor on MAIN PCB.
2. Be careful of the high voltage circuit on MAIN PCB when servicing.
Discharging Procedure
1. Refer to the disassemble procedure and remove the necessary parts/unit.
2. Put the insulation tube onto the lead part of Resistor (ERG5SJ102:1kΩ /5W).
(An equivalent type of resistor may be used.)
3. Put the resistor between both terminals of capacitor on MAIN PCB for approx. 5 seconds.
4. After discharging confirm that the capacitor voltage is lower than 10V using a voltmeter.

How to Replace the Lithium Battery

Replacement Procedure
1. Remove the Main PCB.
2. Remove the Lithium battery (Ref. No. at component side of Main PCB) and then replace it into new one.

Note:

The lithium battery is a critical component.
(Type No.: ML-614S/ZT )
It must never be subjected to excessive heat or discharge.
It must therefore only be fitted in equipment designed specifically for its use.
Replacement batteries must be of the same type and manufacture.
They must be fitted in the same manner and location as the original battery, with the correct polarity contacts observed.
Do not attempt to re-charge the old battery or re-use it for any other purpose.
It should be disposed of in waste products destined for burial rather than incineration.

How to enter to engineering mode – how to adjust the speed sensor - Spirit Elliptical trainer - ZE110 - ZE120

Spirit Elliptical trainer - ZE110 - ZE120 - XE125 - XE150 - XE350 - XE550 – How to enter to engineering mode – how to adjust the speed sensor – How to test the adapter voltage

XE350 Engineering Mode
1. Press and hold the START, ENTER, and STOP buttons until display beeps.
2. “ENGINEERING MODE” will scroll across the screen, press ENTER.
3. Press the UP and/or DOWN buttons to scroll through the following sub menus:
Key Test
Display Test
Functions
Security
Factory Set
Exit
4. Press ENTER to access the desired program.
5. Press STOP to exit Engineering Mode.
Key Test
Press ENTER. Press all buttons on console.
Display Test
Press ENTER. Console will test each LED. Look to see if there are any segments or LED’s that are burned out.
Functions
Sleep Mode On/Off ------ Press ENTER to turn on or off.
Pause Mode On/Off ----- Press ENTER to turn on or off.
Odometer Reset ---------- Press ENTER to reset.
Units English/Metric ----- Press ENTER to change.
Beep Sound On/Off ------ Press ENTER to turn on or off.
Exit ------------------------ Press ENTER to exit the functions menu.
Security
Child Lock On/Off ------- Press ENTER to turn on or off.
Factory Set
Press ENTER to go back to original factory settings. This will reset saved user programs.
Exit
Press ENTER to exit Engineering Mode.

XE550 Engineering Mode
1. Press and hold the START, ENTER, and STOP buttons until display beeps.
2. “ENGINEERING MODE” will scroll across the screen, press ENTER.
3. Press the UP and/or DOWN buttons to scroll through the following sub menus:
Key Test
Display Test
Functions
Security
4. Press ENTER to access the desired program.
Key Test
Press ENTER. Press all buttons on console. (If all work, it will say PASSED.)
Display Test
Press ENTER. Console will test each LED. Look to see if there are any segments or LED’s that are burned out.
Functions
Sleep Mode On/Off ------Press ENTER to turn on or off.
Pause Mode On/Off -----Press ENTER to turn on or off.
Odometer Reset ----------Press ENTER to reset.
Units English/Metric ----Press ENTER to change.
Beep Sound On/Off -----Press ENTER to turn on or off.
Motor Test -----------------Press ENTER to begin test. Press STOP to end test.
Exit --------------------------Press ENTER to exit the functions menu.
Security
Child Lock On/Off ------- Press ENTER to turn on or off. Press STOP to exit security menu.

Test gear motor
1. If unit is an XE550, go to motor test in engineering mode .
2. Take off right shroud so you can access the gear motor.
3. Turn meter on setting to check for DC voltage.
4. Check for voltage between the yellow and the red wires. (Should be around 4.5v for 350/550)
5. Check for voltage between the yellow and orange. Check for voltage between the red and orange.
These two voltages should added together should total the voltage that you had between the yellow and red.
6. Press the START button and press the UP button. Check for voltage between the black and the brown wires. You should get 4-6 volts.

Test adapter for voltage
1. Plug adapter into a working outlet.
2. Turn on meter to test for DC voltage.
3. Put one lead into the end of the plug and the other lead to the metal on the outside.

4. The adapter will be labeled 9VDC or 12VDC. When testing, the reading should be a few volts higher than the label says. If there is less voltage than what the label says, you need to replace the adapter.

Test harness for power supply voltage
1. After you have tested the adapter for voltage, plug in the machine and take the console off of the unit.
2. Turn on the meter to test for DC voltage.
3. Put one lead on the 1st wire and the other lead on the 3rd wire.

4. You should have basically the same voltage here as you had when you tested the adapter. If the

reading is vastly different, the harness needs to be replaced.

Alignment of speed sensor and magnet
1. Using a flat screw driver or a knife, take off the round disc cover on the left side of the unit.
2. Turn the pedal so the bigger opening is at the top of the hole.

3. Sensor should be pointing directly at the large pulley and there should be a magnet in the on the pulley.

Samsung LN52B630N1FXZA- Samsung PN50B450B1DXZA - Troubleshooting

 Troubleshooting Tips – Hum and Noise - Vertical bar - LED flashes constantly - Intermittent volume increase to maximum - Dark area in center of the screen- Vertical and horizontal lines - Samsung LN52B630N1FXZA- Samsung PN50B450B1DXZA- Samsung LN32B550K1FXZA - LN37B550K1FXZA - LN40B550K1FXZA, - LN40B550K1FUZA - LN46B550K1FXZA - LN46B550K1FUZA - LN52B550K1FXZA - Samsung UN55B8500XFXZA -Samsung  LN40B530P7FXZA

When troubleshooting almost any product, be it an appliance or TV, take a bit of time to listen, look, smell, and touch the product before picking up a piece of test equipment to make measurements. By doing this, you can often narrow down the range of possible causes.
For example, if you’re investigating a plasma television failure, you can often find the area of initial failure by using at least one of your senses. You can also use the customer’s senses to help you find the area of initial failure by asking the customer questions about what he or she experienced at the time of the failure. Questions like “Did you hear any sounds or noise coming from the set?” or “Did you smell anything burning?” substitute the customer’s senses for yours and act as a trouble - shooting tool of the senses you can use, even though you weren’t there at the time of failure.

Asking the customer some simple questions might indicate that they “heard” a noise and “smelled” something burning. You then use the gift of eyesight to narrow down the search and, as in the Plasma TV example in the next column, find the burned out IC.

Listen for any noise that is out of the ordinary.

Look for any abnormalities.
Smell around for something that might have burned or overheated.
Touch the unit to feel if something is getting abnormally hot.
Ask the customer what he or she heard, smelled, saw, or felt.

Humming Noise and Scrolling Bar

A TV that’s humming and displaying a scrolling bar on the screen. To the trained tech, it’s easily identifiable as a common ground issue with the cable box.

1: Carry a spare line cord with the third pin removed
This is quick and easy. Remove the current power cord from the TV, insert your modified power cord, and then turn the TV on. The humming and scrolling should subside, showing the customer that the problem is with the cable box ground and not the TV. DO NOT LEAVE
YOUR MODIFIED CORD. This is for your demonstrations and you may need it further down the road.

2: Carry 3-prong-to-2 prong adapters
This really is a variation of Option 1. Unplug the TV, attach the adapter to the TV’s power cord, plug the TV back into the wall, and then turn the TV on. Again, the humming and scrolling should subside. Remove the adapter, and the humming and scrolling should return. Explain to the customer that if the TV had a problem, it would display the same symptom with the adapter attached. Since the symptom goes away when you attach the adapter, that proves that there is no problem with the TV, and the problem is with the cable box. Do not leave the adapter with the customer. You’ll need it for other demonstrations and tests, and you don’t want the customer to disable the grounding prong of the TV’s power cord.

3: Dig out your test DVD player
Remove the Red and White audio cables on the customer’s cable box, connect the audio cables from your DVD player, turn on the DVD player, and then turn the TV on. There should be no hum. Explain to the customer that if the TV had a problem, it would display the same symptom with the DVD audio cables. Since the symptom is gone, that proves the inputs are good and there is no problem with the TV. Reconnect the audio cables to the cable box and magically, the humming and scrolling line return.
Note that you can do this with any of the customer’s peripherals, but make sure you return the peripheral that you use to the customer’s preferred location before leaving the home.
4: Upgrade to HDMI
Perhaps the easiest and best option is to convince the customer to use HDMI. Not only would this provide better picture quality, it would also completely rid the TV of this symptom.

TECH TIPS 

Samsung LN52B630N1FXZA
Symptom: The LED above the power button flashes constantly and then flashes at a rapid rate when a command is sent using the remote control.

Solution

Check the LVDS cable.

Samsung PN50B450B1DXZA
Symptom: Vertical bar

Solution

Make sure it shows up in the front of the OSD and/or internal test patterns. If YES, replace panel.

Samsung LN32B550K1FXZA, LN37B550K1FXZA, LN40B550K1FXZA, LN40B550K1FUZA, LN46B550K1FXZA, LN46B550K1FUZA, LN52B550K1FXZA
Symptom: Intermittent volume increase to maximum. The TV volume will intermittently increase up to maximum (100 on screen) and cannot be controlled by the remote.
Solution

 Verify the product serial number range is between December 2009 and January 2010 and replace the front cover (bezel). The year and month of production is represented by the 8th and 9th digit. Possible affected units will be “SC” and “Z1”.

Samsung UN55B8500XFXZA
Symptom: Dark area in center of the screen.

Solution

Make sure it shows up in the front of the OSD and/or internal test patterns. If YES, replace panel.

Samsung  LN40B530P7FXZA
Symptom: Vertical and horizontal lines.

Solution

Make sure it shows up in the front of the OSD and/or internal test patterns. If YES, replace panel.

How to replace the optical drive - Apple MacBook Pro 15

OPTICAL DRIVE REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE 

Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case: Three 13.5 mm (14.1 mm) Phillips screws. Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.

Using both hands, lift the lower case near the vent to pop it off two clips securing it to the upper case. Remove the lower case and set it aside.

Remove the two 7.4 mm Y1 Tri-Wing screws securing the battery to the upper case. Note: For certain repairs (e.g. hard drive), removing the battery is not necessary but it prevents any accidental shorting of electronics on the motherboard. If you do not remove the battery, please be careful as parts of the motherboard might be electrified. You do not necessarily have to follow steps 3-6 to remove the battery in order to replace the hard drive. However it is recommended to remove all power sources from electronics before working on them.

Use the tip of your finger to carefully peel back the corner of the warning label to reveal a hidden Tri-Wing screw. Remove the last 7.4 mm Y1 Tri Wing screw securing the battery to the upper case.

Lift the battery by its plastic pull tab and slide it away from the long edge of the upper case.

Do not try to completely remove the battery just yet.

Tilt the battery away from the logic board enough to access the battery cable connector. Pull the battery cable connector away from its socket on the logic board and remove the battery from the upper case. Pull the battery cable connector away from the center of the logic board.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the AirPort/Bluetooth ribbon cable connector up off the logic board.

Disconnect the camera cable by pulling its connector away from the socket (toward the optical drive) on the logic board.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive connector up off the logic board.

Remove the two Phillips screws securing the AirPort/Bluetooth board housing. Carefully rotate the AirPort/Bluetooth board housing (with AirPort/Antenna cables still attached) out of the lower case.

Remove the following three Phillips screws securing the optical drive to the upper case: One 4.5 mm Phillips screw securing the optical drive bracket to the upper case near the fan.

Two 2.5 mm Phillips screws securing the optical drive to the upper case near the optical drive opening.

Lift the optical drive near its connector and pull it away from the upper case to remove it from the computer.

Pull the optical drive cable out of the optical drive. Be sure to pull by the edges of the connector, not by the cable itself. Optical drive remains.Transfer this bracket to your new optical drive or hard drive enclosure.

How to remove the case – how to remove the mother board - Xbox 360E

Push the Spudger into the crevice between the grated top panel of the Xbox and the bottom body with the rubber feet. Pull back on the spudger like a lever, keeping it pressed firmly into the crevice. Slide the spudger along the separation you have created between the grated panel and the bottom body of the Xbox. Periodically pull back on the spudger like a lever, keeping it pressed firmly into the crevice.

Continue sliding the spudger along the perimeter of the left grated face of the Xbox. Pull the top panel off.

Push the spudger into the crevice between the right grated face and the top body of the Xbox. It's easier to begin away from the vent. Pull up on the spudger like a lever, keeping it pressed firmly into the crevice.

Slide the spudger along the crevice to separate the grated face and the top body.

Wiggle the spudger in the crevice as you slide the spudger to loosen the bottom plate. Slide the spudger along the crevice, going completely about the perimeter of the bottom panel. Pull the bottom panel off.

In front of the CD drive you will find the Xbox logo. Press on the area left of the Xbox logo, and the disk tray panel will pop off.

Beginning on the left side without the grate, run the spudger along the crevice until you've reached the grated part, while holding the part that's being separated as you go.

Keep holding the partially separated panel open. It's easiest to do this by wedging a spudger into the opening but can also be held open by your hands. Rotate the Xbox to the left to locate the clip connecting the front panel to the body. Insert the spudger inside the gap to release the clip. This may require wiggling the spudger. The clip will pop off, making the front panel looser.

Flip the Xbox so the opposite side is towards you. Make sure to keep the separation open. Locate the other clip and insert the spudger to remove it.

Continue to run the spudger along the crease to release any further clips that may still be attatched. Do no pull off the panel too fast because you don't want to damage the ribbon cable. Slowly pull away the panel. Now that the front panel has been released from its clips you can pull off the front panel.

Find the brown section where the ribbon cable enters the green board. Flip the brown part up and pull out the plastic tab at the end of the ribbon.

Looking at the body of the device, locate the green panel to the right of the CD drive. Remove the two 6 mm screws located on the top left and middle right with a T8 Torx screwdriver. Grip the middle of the green board and gently pull it out.

Remove the 11 mm screw left of the green wifi-card using the T9 Torx screw bit.

Firmly grip the green Wi-Fi card and pull it out of the Xbox.

Orient the Xbox so the bottom body is facing upwards. Make sure you see the rubber feet to know you have the correct side of the device. Lift the bottom body slightly away from the core at a 45 degree angle.

Rotate the Xbox so you are now looking at the back of the device. This step of disassembly requires the removal of the warranty sticker. This will void your warranty. Check the main page for a link to warranty information from Microsoft. Remove the sticker from the back of the Xbox.

The sticker is not needed for reassembly.

Turn the Xbox to the left to locate the clip holding the body together. With a spudger, press up on the clip like a latch. Move to the far end to undo the other clip the same way

Push the spudger into the crevice. Slide the spudger along the vertical crevice to detach the last clip. The bottom body should slide off after this.

Remove the five long black 55 mm screws labeled C2-5 and C7 with a T9 Torx screwdriver. Carefully flip the device and pull off the body by lifting from the metal section that is attached to the plastic exterior.

Use your fingers to unplug the blue ribbon cable from the CD drive.

Use tweezers to unplug the blue and pink wires.

Lift the front end of the CD drive and take it out.

From the bottom of your Xbox, take your T9 torx screwdriver and take out all of the 11 mm screws labelled B1-7

Don't forget a screw on the side of the Xbox next to the power plug.

Flip the Xbox over and take out the heat sink plastic shield.

Unplug the red cable. Unplug the blue cable. Take the hard drive assembly by the long plastic arm and lift the entire thing out.

Flip the Xbox to the back and take your T10 torx screwdriver and take out the last four 6 mm screws abelled A1-4.

Back to the top of the Xbox, take out the metal and plastic insert. Place two fingers in between the grooves in the metal body and the motherboard and pull up slightly. Do not pull up from the side with the plugs like the HDMI and internet. As the motherboard comes up, switch to the left side and continue pulling the motherboard up. Once that side of the motherboard is out, lift the rest of the motherboard away from the metal body.

HKC Tablets – HKC 7 – Disassembling procedure

HKC Tablets – HKC 7 – Disassembling procedure – How to remove the case – How to remove the battery – How to remove the touch screen – How to remove the mother board

HKC P776A 

DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE 

Insert the plastic opening tool between the digitizer and the case. Place the spudger in the gap created by the plastic opening tool to assist in separation.

Slide the spudger along the perimeter of the device to fully separate the two pieces.

Use your fingers to pop the screen out from the digitizer.

With the plastic opening tool, lift the black latch up.

Pull the optical cord out from the motherboard.

Use your fingers to pop the screen out from the digitizer.

Use the tip of the spudger to release the latches on the motherboard.

Remove the cable from the motherboard.

Use the tip of the spudger to release the latches on the motherboard.

Remove the camera from the device.

Peel off the tape that is attaching the wifi antenna to the case.

Using the soldering iron, heat up the solder that is attaching the antenna to the motheboard. The heat from the soldering iron may cause personal injury or damage the internal components of the tablet.

Suck up the leftover solder using the desoldering pump. Remove the wifi antenna from the motherboard. Insert the plastic opening tool between the battery and case. Apply leverage to break the glue that is attaching the battery to the case.

Continue breaking the glue along the perimeter of the battery until the battery can be removed. Breaking all the glue between the battery and case may take a long time.

Using the soldering iron, heat up the solder that is attaching the battery to the motheboard. The heat from the soldering iron may cause personal injury or damage the internal components of the tablet.

Suck up the leftover solder using the desoldering pump. Remove the battery from the motherboard.

Using the screwdriver, remove the four 4mm by 1.5mm screws that are attaching the motherboard to the case.

Remove the black material that is covering the speaker.

Insert the spudger into the speaker slot on the back of the case.

Push the speaker out of the case with the spudger. Remove the motherboard from the case.

Apple iPhone 6 - How to replace the volume button

Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning connector.

Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

Be sure the cup is pressed securely onto the screen to get a tight seal.

While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.

Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.
Using a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the display assembly, while continuing to pull up with the suction cup.
There are several clips holding the front panel assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use a combination of the suction cup and plastic opening tool to free the front panel assembly.

Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.

Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

Open the iPhone by swinging the home button end of the front panel assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge.

Several clips along the top edge of the front panel form a partial hinge.
During reassembly, align the clips just below the top edge of the rear case. Then, slide the front panel upward until its top edge is flush with that of the rear case.

Open the display to about a 90 Degree angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

In a pinch, an unopened canned beverage works well for this.
Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

Remove the following Phillips #00 screws from the battery connector bracket:

One 2.2 mm screw
One 3.2 mm screw

Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Take care to only pry up on the battery connector, and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

Remove the following five Phillips screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket:
Three 1.2 mm screws
One 1.7 mm screw
One 3.1 mm screw

Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

In the next four steps, take care to pry up only on the cable connectors, and not on their sockets on the logic board.

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the home button cable connector.

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the display data cable connector.

When reassembling your phone, the display data cable may pop off its connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery connector.

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the digitizer cable connector.

Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

Peel back the first battery adhesive tab from the bottom right edge of the battery.
Use your fingers or blunt tweezers, and be extra careful when working near the battery—puncturing a lithium-ion battery can release dangerous chemicals and cause a fire.

Gently pull the battery adhesive tab away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.

Try not to pull against the battery or the lower components, or you may rip the adhesive strip.
Continue pulling, allowing the strip to slowly slip out from between the battery and the rear case. When you feel increased resistance from the strip, stop pulling and continue with the next step.
If the battery adhesive tabs break off at any point during the removal process, use your fingers or blunt tweezers to retrieve the remaining length of adhesive, and continue pulling.
If either of the adhesive strips breaks off underneath the battery and cannot be retrieved, try to remove the remaining strip, and then proceed .

When you feel increased resistance from the adhesive strip, pull it gently around the lower right corner of the battery.

Continue pulling the adhesive tab upward and away from the right edge of the battery, allowing it to slowly slide out from between the battery and the rear case, until the strip comes free from the iPhone.
Don't allow the adhesive strip to snag on the battery connector, or it may tear or break off.

  Peel back the second battery adhesive tab from the bottom left edge of the battery.

Again, gently pull the battery adhesive tab upward and away from the battery, allowing the adhesive strip to slowly slide out from between the battery and the rear case.
Continue pulling the adhesive tab until you feel increased resistance, and then stop.

When you feel increased resistance from the adhesive strip, pull it gently around the lower left corner of the battery.

Don't allow the adhesive strip to snag on the corner of the battery, or it may tear or break off.
Continue pulling the adhesive tab upward and away from the left edge of the battery, allowing it to slowly slide out from between the battery and the rear case, until the strip comes free from the iPhone.

If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case,  use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery

Flip the iPhone back over and insert a plastic card between the case side of the battery and the rear case.
Do not pry against the logic board or you may damage the phone.
Be careful to keep the card as flat as possible to avoid bending the battery, which may damage it and cause it to release dangerous chemicals.
Press the card in farther to break up the adhesive behind the battery

Remove the battery from the iPhone. When installing the battery, refer to this guide to replace your battery's adhesive strips.

 Remove the following Phillips #00 screws from the upper cable bracket:

One 2.9 mm screw
One 2.2 mm screw

 Remove the upper cable bracket from the iPhone.

 Remove the contact bracket from the iPhone.

 Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the volume control cable connector up off of its socket.

Only pry up on the connector, not the socket on the logic board or you risk permanent damage.

 Remove the following Phillips #00 screws from the volume control cable brackets:

Two 2.3 mm screws
One 1.8 mm scew

 Pull the hold switch and volume control button brackets away from the rear case to allow access to the button covers.

 Begin to peel the volume control button cable up from the rear case starting from the connector end.

Be gentle when peeling the thin portions of the cable up from the case.
Remove the volume control button cable from the rear case.

 Pull the volume control buttons by the metal bar to remove them from the rear case.

The buttons are held to the case with an adhesive gasket, pull carefully to prevent ripping the membrane.

Refrigerator common faults and solution

Not Cooling

1. Condenser Coils are Dirty

The condenser coils are usually located under the refrigerator. They dissipate heat as refrigerant passes through them. If the condenser coils are dirty, they won’t dissipate the heat effectively. As debris builds up on the coils, the refrigerator becomes less efficient, causing the refrigerator to work harder to cool down. If the coils are significantly dirty, the refrigerator will not be able to maintain the proper temperature. Check the condenser coils to determine if they are dirty,if the condenser coils are dirty, clean them.

2. Evaporator Fan Motor

The evaporator fan motor draws air over the evaporator (cooling) coils and circulates it throughout the refrigerator and freezer compartments. Some refrigerators have more than one evaporator fan motor. On refrigerators with only one evaporator, the evaporator is located in the freezer compartment. If the evaporator fan is not working, it will not circulate the cold air to the refrigerator compartment. If this occurs, the freezer may still get cold, while the refrigerator will not get cold. To determine if the evaporator fan motor is defective, try turning the fan blade by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, replace the fan motor. Additionally, if the motor is  noisy, replace it. Finally, if the motor does not run at all, use a multimeter to test the motor winding for continuity. If the winding do not have continuity, replace the evaporator fan motor.

3. Condenser Fan Motor

The condenser fan motor draws air though the condenser coils and over the compressor. If the condenser fan motor is not working properly, the refrigerator won’t cool properly. To determine if the fan motor is defective, first check the fan blade for obstructions. Next, try turning the fan motor blade by hand. If the blade does not spin freely, replace the condenser fan motor. If no obstructions are present and the fan blade spins freely, use a multimeter to test the fan motor for continuity. If the condenser fan motor does not have continuity, replace it.

4. Start Relay

The start relay works in conjunction with the start winding to start the compressor. If the start relay is defective, the compressor may sometimes fail to run or may not run at all. As a result, the refrigerator will not be cold enough. To determine if the start relay is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity between the run and start terminal sockets. If the start relay does not have continuity between the run and start terminal sockets, replace it. In addition, if the start relay has a burnt, replace it too.

5. Temperature Control Thermostat

The temperature control thermostat directs voltage to the compressor, evaporator fan motor, and condenser fan motor (if applicable). If the temperature control thermostat is not working properly, it may prevent the refrigerant system from running. To determine if the thermostat is defective, rotate the thermostat from the lowest setting to the highest setting and listen for a click. If the thermostat clicks, it is not likely defective. If the thermostat does not click, use a multimeter to test the thermostat for continuity. If the temperature control thermostat does not have continuity at any setting, replace it.

6. Start Capacitor

The start capacitor provides a boost of power to the compressor during start-up. If the start capacitor isn’t working, the compressor may not start. As a result, the refrigerator will not cool. To determine if the start capacitor is defective, test it with an LCR multimeter. If the start capacitor is defective, replace it.

7.Thermistor

The thermistor monitors the refrigerator temperature and sends the temperature reading to the control board. The control board regulates power to the compressor and evaporator fan based on the thermistor readings. If the thermistor is defective, the compressor and evaporator fan may not run when necessary. As a result, the refrigerator will not be cold enough. To determine if the thermistor is defective, test it with a multimeter. The thermistor resistance should change in conjunction with the refrigerator temperature. If the thermistor resistance does not change, or the thermistor does not have continuity, replace the thermistor.

8. Temperature Control Board

The temperature control board provides voltage to the compressor and fan motors. If the temperature control board is defective, it will stop sending voltage to the cooling system. However, this is not a common occurrence. Control boards are often misdiagnosed, before replacing the control board, first test all of the more commonly defective components. If none of the other components are defective, consider replacing the temperature control board.

9. Compressor

The compressor is a motor which compresses the refrigerant and circulates the refrigerant through the evaporator and condenser coils. If the compressor is not working, the refrigerator won’t cool. However, this isn’t usually the case. Before replacing the compressor, first check for defective components. If all of the other components are working properly, use a multimeter to test the compressor winding for continuity. If the compressor winding does not have continuity, replace it.

10. Main Control Board

The main control board might be defective. However, this is almost never the cause. Before replacing the main control board, test for defective parts. If none of the other components are defective, consider replacing the main control board.

Water Dispenser Not Working

1. Water Tube in Door is Frozen

To determine if the water supply tube is frozen, disconnect the tube at the bottom of the door and blow air through it. If air does not pass through, this indicates that the water supply tube is frozen. If the water supply tube is frozen, thaw it out. In addition, ensure that the freezer is kept at the proper temperature. The freezer temperature should be kept from 0-10 degrees Fahrenheit. If the freezer is too cold, the water line may freeze.

2. Water Inlet Valve

The water inlet valve opens to supply water to the dispenser. If the water inlet valve is defective, or if the water pressure is too low, the water valve will not open. The valve requires at least 20psi to function properly. Make sure that the water pressure to the valve is at least 20 psi. If the water pressure is sufficient, use a multimeter to test the water inlet valve for continuity. If the water inlet valve does not have continuity, replace it.

3. Low Water Pressure from House Supply

The home may have insufficient water pressure. The water inlet valve supplies water to the water dispenser. The water inlet valve requires a minimum of 20 psi to function properly. Check the water flow and test the pressure to determine if it is at least 20 psi.

Ice Maker Not Working

1. Freezer Temperature is Above 10 Degrees F (-12 Degree C)

If the freezer temperature is above 10 degrees Fahrenheit (-12C), the ice maker will not produce ice cubes efficiently. The freezer temperature should be set between 0 and 5 degrees Fahrenheit (-18 to -15 Degree C) for the ice maker to work properly. If the freezer temperature is too high, ensure that the condenser coils are clear of debris and the condenser fan is working properly. In addition, check to see if frost has accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, part of the defrost system has likely failed.

2. Water Inlet Valve

The water inlet valve is an electrically-controlled valve that opens to supply water to the dispenser and ice maker. If the water inlet valve is defective, or if it has insufficient pressure, it won’t allow water to flow through. As a result, the ice maker won’t make ice. The valve requires at least 20 psi to function properly. Make sure that the water pressure to the valve is at least 20 psi. If the water pressure is sufficient, use a multimeter to check for power to the water inlet valve. If the water inlet valve has sufficient pressure and is getting power, but the ice maker won’t fill with water to make ice, replace the water inlet valve.

3. Ice Maker Assembly

Since many of the ice maker components are not sold separately, you may need to purchase and replace the entire ice maker assembly. Before replacing the ice maker assembly, check the water inlet valve, water line, and fan. If none of these parts are faulty, and the freezer temperature is not at least 15 degrees Fahrenheit, replace the ice maker assembly.

Ice Dispenser Not Working

1. Dispenser Control Board

The dispenser control board governs most of the functions of the dispenser system. If the control board is faulty, it may stop supplying power to the entire dispenser system. If only one dispenser part is not working, test each of the dispenser components before testing the control board. May be single part has failed. If the entire dispenser system is not working, the control board is more likely to be at faulty.

2. Dispenser Switch

The dispenser switches send voltage to the dispenser. If one of the dispenser switches is defective, the dispenser will not work. To determine if a dispenser switch is defective, use a multimeter to test each switch for continuity. If a dispenser switch does not have continuity, replace it.

3. Dispenser Actuator

The dispenser actuator interacts with the dispenser switches, which power the auger motor and other dispenser components. If the dispenser actuator is broken, it may not activate the switches properly or at all. Inspect the dispenser actuator, if it is broken replace it.

Not Defrosting

1. Defrost Control Board

The defrost control board determines how often to run the defrost cycle. If the board fails, the refrigerator will not go into the defrost cycle. Before replacing the defrost control board, first test the defrost heater and defrost thermostat. If the defrost heater and defrost thermostat are working properly, the defrost control board is likely defective.

2. Defrost Timer

The defrost timer turns on the defrost heater several times throughout the day to melt any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost timer is defective, it may not advance into the defrost cycle, or it may not send power to the defrost heater during the defrost cycle. To determine if the defrost timer is defective, slowly advance the dial into the defrost cycle. The compressor should turn off and the heater should turn on. If the timer does not send power to the defrost components or advance out of the defrost cycle within 30 minutes, this indicates that the defrost timer is not working. If the defrost timer is not working, then replace it.

3. Defrost Heater Assembly

The defrost heater assembly turns on several times throughout the day to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost heater assembly is defective, the defrost system will not work, and frost will continue to accumulate on the evaporator coils. To determine if the defrost heater is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the defrost heater does not have continuity, then replace it.

Noisy

1. Fan Blade

If the refrigerator is noisy or loud, especially when the door is opened, either the evaporator or condenser fan blade may be at fault. First, turn the evaporator fan blade by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, check to see if the blade is rubbing against something or if something is caught in the blade. Additionally, check the condenser fan blade to determine if it has any obstructions.

2. Evaporator Fan Motor

When the evaporator fan motor fails, it often generates a lot of noise. This noise will be much louder when the refrigerator door is opened. If the evaporator fan is noisy,then replace it.

3. Condenser Fan Motor

There might be something caught in the condenser fan motor blade, or the condenser fan motor bearings might be defective. The condenser fan motor is usually located underneath the refrigerator near the back. Pull the refrigerator out from the wall and remove the access panel to access it.

Freezer is Cold But Refrigerator is Warm

1. The Evaporator Coils are Frosted Over

The defrost heater assembly turns on a few times throughout the day to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost heater assembly is defective, frost will continue to accumulate on the evaporator coils, and the coils will become plugged with frost. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, the airflow through the coils will be restricted, causing the refrigerator not to cool. Check the evaporator coils to determine if they are frosted over. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, test each component of the defrost system.

2. Evaporator Fan Motor

The evaporator fan motor draws cold air over the evaporator coils and circulates it throughout the freezer. If the evaporator fan is not working, the freezer or refrigerator will not cool adequately. To determine if the evaporator fan motor is defective, try turning the fan blade by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, replace the fan motor. Additionally, if the motor is noisy, replace it. Finally, if the motor does not run at all, use a multimeter to test the motor winding for continuity. If the winding do not have continuity, replace the evaporator fan motor.

3. Damper Control Assembly

The air damper control opens and closes to let the proper amount of cold air into the refrigerator compartment. If the damper does not open properly, it won’t let enough cold air into the refrigerator. Check the damper control to determine if it is broken or closed.

Defrost Drain Freeze

1. Freezing Defrost Drain

The defrost drain might be clogged or frozen. If the defrost drain is frozen, the water will overflow trough drain  and drip down to the bottom of the compartment. If the defrost drain is frozen, thaw it out and ensure that the drain is clear of debris.

2. Drain Strap

Some defrost drains are outfitted with a drain strap. The drain strap is a small piece of copper or aluminum that attaches to the defrost heater and extends partway into the defrost drain. When the defrost heater turns on, heat is conducted through the drain strap to melt away any ice that may have accumulated further down in the defrost drain. If the drain strap is not in place, the defrost drain may be more likely to freeze over.

3. Drain Heater

Some refrigerators are equipped with drain heaters. Drain heaters prevent the water in the drain pan from re-freezing and clogging the defrost drain. If your drain heater is defective or is not in the proper position, the defrost drain might freeze over.

Water leakage 

1. Freezing Defrost Drain

If the defrost drain is frozen, the water will overflow the drain trough and drip down to the bottom of the compartment. This water can eventually leak onto the floor. Check the defrost drain to determine if it is clogged or frozen. If the defrost drain is frozen, thaw the ice. In addition, flush the drain with hot water to ensure that it is clear of debris.

2. Water Tank Assembly

Inspect the water tank assembly for any leaks. Be aware that the leak may be very small and hard to find. If you discover a leak, replace the water tank. Do not attempt to repair the water tank, glue will not stick properly to the plastic protion of the tank.

3. Water Inlet Valve

The water inlet valve opens to, supply water to the dispenser and icemaker. If the water inlet valve is cracked or has a loose fitting, water will leak from the valve. Inspect the water inlet valve for cracks, and make sure that it is tightly secured to the water supply line.

Freezing Food

1. Temperature Control Thermostat

The temperature control thermostat directs voltage to the compressor, evaporator fan motor, and condenser fan motor (if applicable). If the temperature control thermostat is not working properly, it may cause the refrigerant system to run longer than necessary. As a result, the refrigerator will be too cold. To determine if the thermostat is defective, rotate the thermostat from the lowest setting to the highest setting and listen for a click. If the thermostat clicks, it is not likely defective. If the thermostat does not click, use a multimeter to test the thermostat for continuity. If the temperature control thermostat does not have continuity at any setting, replace it.

2. Thermistor

The thermistor monitors the air temperature and sends the temperature reading to the control board. The control board then regulates power to the compressor and evaporator fan based on the thermistor readings. If the thermistor is defective, the compressor and evaporator fan may run too frequently. As a result, the refrigerator will be too cool. To determine if the thermistor is defective, test it with a multimeter. The thermistor resistance should change in conjunction with the refrigerator temperature. If the thermistor resistance does not change, or the thermistor does not have continuity, replace the thermistor.

3. Temperature Control Board

The temperature control board provides voltage to the compressor and fan motors. If the control board is faulty, it may send continuous voltage to the compressor or fan motors. As a result, the refrigerator will be too cool. Control boards are often misdiagnosed, before replacing the control board, first test for other defective components. If none of the other components are defective, consider replacing the temperature control board.

Ice And Water Dispenser Not Working

1. Dispenser Control Board

The dispenser control board governs most of the functions of the dispenser system. If only one dispenser part is not working, it is probable that an individual part has failed. In this case, test each of the dispenser components before testing the control board. If the entire dispenser system is not working, the control board is more likely to be at 

2. Dispenser Switch

The dispenser switches send voltage to the dispenser. If one of the dispenser switch is defective, the dispenser will not work. To determine if a dispenser switch is defective, use a multimeter to test each switch for continuity. If a dispenser switch does not have continuity, replace it.

3. Door Switch

The door switch turns off the ice and water dispenser when the refrigerator door is open. If the door switch fails, the dispenser will not turn on. To determine if the door switch is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the door switch does not have continuity when activated, replace it.

Ice Maker Overflowing

1. Water Inlet Valve

The water inlet valve requires a minimum of 20 psi to shut off properly. If the water pressure is too low, the valve may not close fully once the power is shut off. As a result, the valve will leak water into the ice maker and cause the ice maker to overflow. Check the water pressure to determine if it is at least 20 psi. If the water pressure is sufficient, the water inlet valve is likely defective. The valve may not shut off all the way or may be stuck open, causing water to leak through the valve. If the water pressure is sufficient, but the ice maker is still overflowing, replace the water inlet valve.

2. Low Water Pressure from House Supply

The water inlet valve supplies water to the refrigerator ice and water dispenser. The valve requires a minimum of 20psi to work properly. If the water pressure is too low, the valve may not close fully when the power is shut off. As a result, the valve leaks water into the ice maker, causing it to overflow. Check the water flow and test the pressure to determine if it is at least 20 psi.

3. Ice Maker Assembly

Since many of the ice maker components are not sold separately, you may need to purchase and replace the entire ice maker assembly.

Light Not Working

1. Light Assembly

The light assembly might be defective. Some manufacturers don’t sell the bulb separately, and instead require you to purchase the light assembly.

2. Light Switch

To determine if the light switch is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the light switch does not have continuity, replace it.

3. Door Switch

To determine if the door switch is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the door switch does not have continuity when activated, replace it.

4. Light Socket

To determine if the light socket is defective, use a multimeter to determine if the socket is getting power. If the socket is getting power, but the bulb won’t work, this indicates that the light socket is defective. If the light socket is defective, replace it.

5. Light Board

First, ensure that the light board is receiving the proper amount of voltage. If the light board is receiving sufficient voltage, but the refrigerator light will not work, replace the light board.

Runs Constantly

1. Condenser Coils are Dirty

The condenser coils are usually located under the refrigerator. They dissipate heat from the refrigerator as refrigerant passes through them. If debris accumulates on the coils, the refrigerator will have to work harder to remove the heat. If the coils are significantly dirty, the refrigerator will run constantly in an effort to cool down. Your refrigerator’s condenser coils should be cleaned twice a year.

2. Freezer Temperature is Above 10 Degrees F (-12C)

If the freezer temperature is above 10 degrees Fahrenheit (-12 Degree C), the refrigerator will not be cold enough. If the refrigerator is not cold enough, it will work harder to cold down. As a result, it will run constantly. The freezer temperature should be set between 0 and 5 degrees Fahrenheit (-18 to -15 Degree C). If the freezer temperature is too high, ensure that the condenser coils are clear of debris and the condenser fan is working properly. In addition, check to see if frost has accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, part of the defrost system has likely failed.

3. Defrost Heater Assembly

The defrost heater assembly turns on several times throughout the day to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost heater assembly is defective, the refrigerator will not defrost, and frost will continue to accumulate on the evaporator coils. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, the refrigerator will work harder to remove the heat. As a result, the refrigerator will run constantly in an effort to cool down. To determine if the defrost heater is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the defrost heater does not have continuity, replace it.

4. Defrost Thermostat

If the refrigerator runs constantly, the defrost thermostat might be defective. Several times a day the defrost heater turns on for a few minutes to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the freezer or refrigerator evaporator coils. In order for this to work, the defrost thermostat has to sense that the coils are cold enough. If the coils are cold enough the defrost heater will turn on. If the thermostat is defective it may not be able to sense the temperature of the coils and then won't turn on the defrost heater. If the defrost heater doesn't turn on, the frost will build up on the coils and eventually no air will be able to travel through the coils to provide cooling . The defrost thermostat can be checked for continuity. It should have continuity when it reaches the low temperature of its operating range.

5. Door Gasket

If the Refrigerator runs constantly the door gasket may be torn or defective, or if the door is not shutting tightly warm air can enter the the refrigerator and cause the evaporator coils to ice over. This happens because humid air from the room is drawn into the refrigerator through the opening at the gasket. As the humidity comes in contact with the cold evaporator coils it condenses and freezes. Normally the defrost system removes this frost and ice. However, if the door gasket is defective the evaporator coils ice over too quickly and the defrost cycle cannot keep up.

6. Evaporator Fan Motor

If the refrigerator runs constantly, the evaporator fan motor might have failed. Every refrigerator has a set of coils called an evaporator. The refrigerator may have one or more evaporator fan motors depending on the model and evaporator locations. The evaporator fan motor circulates the cold air from the coils thru the compartment. If there is only one evaporator it is in the freezer side. If the fan is not working, no cold air will get to the refrigerator compartment. The freezer may still get cold.

7. Defrost Control Board

If the refrigerator runs constantly, the defrost control board might be defective. The defrost control board monitors several conditions and determines how often to run the defrost cycle. If the board fails, the refrigerator will not go into the defrost cycle. Eventually, ice will build up on the evaporator coil and then the refrigerator and or freezer will not stay cold enough. This will depend on where the evaporator is located. It's prudent to check the defrost heater and defrost thermostat for continuity before replacing the defrost control board.

8. Defrost Timer

If the refrigerator runs constantly, the defrost timer might be defective. Two or three times a day the defrost timer is supposed to turn on the defrost to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the freezer evaporator coils. If the timer is defective it won't advance and won't turn on the heater.

9. Condenser Fan Motor

If the refrigerator runs constantly there might be something caught in the condenser fan motor blade, or the condenser fan motor might be defective. The condenser fan motor draws air over the condenser coils to cool them. The condenser fan motor is located underneath the refrigerator near the back. Pull the refrigerator out from the wall and remove the access panel to access it.