Apple iPad Touch 5th generation: disassembling procedure

Apple iPad Touch 5th generation – Disassembling procedure – How to remove the case – How to remove the battery – How to remove the display

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPod's display until the whole face is covered.
This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair

The bottom of the screen (near the home button) is held in place with strong adhesive.

Use a heat gun or hair dryer (low setting) to soften the adhesive.
As you start prying the screen off in the next stages, you may need to apply more heat to keep the glue warm and flexible.

Center the suction cup on the lower section of the glass, with its edge centered over the home button.

Press in firmly and make sure the cup has a strong seal.

Hold the iPod firmly against a table or bench.

Place your thumb and index finger over the lower corners of the display to stop the display from opening too far when the adhesive breaks.

Lift the suction cup up and back toward the top of the iPod. Be patient, and pull with firm, constant force until the adhesive breaks and the display comes up from the rear case.

It may be necessary to use a heat gun to soften the adhesive (especially in cooler climates). If you can pry the screen apart, and the adhesive is still sticking and pulling apart like cheese topping on a pizza, you can slide a thin razor blade in and gently cut the adhesive.

After the display begins to lift from the rear case, be careful not to lift more than about an inch a fragile plastic frame still connects the display assembly to the rear case.

In the following steps, you will be loosening and freeing the plastic frame that surrounds the screen. It is connected to the rear case with several clips.

Starting at the top right of the device, insert a plastic opening tool into the gap between the plastic frame and the aluminum rear case.

Slide the tool down this crack, loosening the frame from the case.

Insert the plastic opening tool between the frame and the rear case behind the first clip. Rock the tool sideways, to spread the gap behind the clip and separate it from the rear case.

This may not free the clip initially, but repeating the procedure for each clip will begin to loosen the piece.

Repeat the procedure with the next two clips on this side.

You may have to go back and forth between the clips to free all of them. Take your time and be careful and patient, as the plastic frame is quite fragile.

Moving on to the left side of the device, insert a plastic opening tool into the gap between the plastic frame and the aluminum rear case near the top.

Slide the tool down this crack, loosening the frame from the case.

Insert the plastic opening tool between the frame and the rear case behind the first clip on the left side.

Rock the tool sideways, to spread the gap behind the clip and separate it from the rear
case.

Repeat the procedure with the next two clips on this side.

Insert the plastic opening tool between the plastic frame and aluminum rear case behind the second clip.
Rock the tool sideways, loosening the clip from the case.

Using the same procedure, loosen the last clip securing the plastic frame to the rear case.

Insert the plastic opening tool between the display assembly and the rear case near the top of the iPod.

Slightly twist the opening tool to pry the front panel up from the rear case.
Separate the display assembly from the iPod.
Do not try to completely remove the front panel, as it is still connected by several cables.

Gently fold the display over away from the rest of the iPod, taking care not to disconnect or break any of the ribbon cables. Set the two halves flat on a table or bench.

Use a plastic opening tool to pry the home button switch up from the LCD plate.
It may be necessary to use a heat gun or hair dryer to soften the adhesive on the back of the home button. Always use a low heat setting.
Do not attempt to remove the home button switch, as it is connected to components below the LCD plate.

Remove the following screws securing the LCD plate to the rear case:

Two 1.2 mm #00 Phillips screws
Nine 1.6 mm #00 Phillips screws
One 2.3 mm #00 Phillips screw

Lift up and remove the LCD plate from the iPod.

Remove three 1.6 mm #00 Phillips screws securing the logic board to the rear case.

There are two strips of adhesive keeping the battery in place.

Turn the iPod over and heat the
BACK of the aluminium iPod case. Do not heat the battery.
The aluminium case does not have to be hot; you should always be able to touch heated parts with your fingers at all times without it being uncomfortable.

There are three notches on either side of the battery. In the next few steps, you will be using these notches to gradually pry the battery up from the rear case.

The battery is secured with large amounts of adhesive, so you'll need to go slowly and carefully to avoid puncturing or creasing the battery.
Insert a plastic opening tool into the top right notch and gently pry up on the battery.
Do not attempt to pry up the entire battery at this point; you just want to start to loosen the adhesive at each of the prying points, in turn.

Continue with the lower right notch. Insert the plastic opening tool into the notch, and gently pry up on the side of the battery.

Continue prying the battery up from the bottom.
When prying along the bottom, be careful not to press down too hard against the speaker or headphone jack.

Pry along the left side as well.

You may need to move back and forth between the sides and bottom of the battery, prying a small amount at a time until the battery is entirely free from the adhesive.

Once all of the adhesive is loosened, lift the battery up from the bottom and swing it out over the left side of the rear case.

Be sure not to yank it out, as it is soldered to the logic board.
Flip the battery over to straighten its cable and set it down.

Use the flat end of a spudger to flip the front-facing camera out of its socket in the display assembly.

Use the tip of a spudger to peel back a small piece of tape covering a screw on the side of the headphone jack.

Remove the following screws securing the headphone jack, Lightning connector, and speaker.

Three 2.6 mm #00 Phillips screws
Two 2.0 mm #00 Phillips screws

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the speaker up from the rear case.

Do not try to remove the speaker, as it is soldered to the Lightning connector assembly.

Grasping the large ribbon cable, gently pull the Lightning connector assembly out of the bottom of the case.

Flip the entire assembly over, exposing the back of the logic board.

Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the digitizer cable from the logic board.

Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the display cable from its socket in the logic board.

Flip the Lightning connector/logic board assembly back over to expose the top of the logic board.

The display cable is lightly adhered to the top of the logic board.
Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the display cable up from the logic board.

Remove the display assembly from the iPod.

Apple Time Capsule – Disassembling procedure

Disassembling procedure – How to remove the power supply – How to remove the HDD - Apple Time Capsule

Remove the rubber base

Place a piece of cloth or a similar soft material on a clean, flat surface. Place the device upside down on top of the fabric.
Open the Time Capsule by exposing the screws that hold the device together. The screws are concealed by the rubber base, which is the bottom surface of the device.
Use a heat gun or hair dryer to heat the rubber base, which softens the adhesive holding it on.
Starting in a corner, carefully lift the rubber base to prevent tearing. You can use a guitar pick or a small, plastic ruler to help separate the rubber from the metal.
Take your time to prevent tearing the adhesive. Ensure that you don't overheat the device.

 If you tear some of the adhesive, don't worry. The existing adhesive is more than enough to allow the rubber base to stick back onto the unit during reassembly.

During reassembly, you can apply heat to the rubber base. This will enable the adhesive to flow and form a better bond with the device's metal casing.

Remove the screws

Once the rubber base is separated from the device, remove the 8 Phillips PH00 screws that attach the metal bottom of the case to the plastic top of the case.
Use the Philiips #00 Screwdriver. Some revisions of the Time Capsule have 10 screws. The A1254 revision has two screws in the upper right and lower left corners, as shown in the second image. In this situation, be sure to remove all 10 screws

Open the Time Capsule

Position the rear side of the device (the side with Ethernet connectors) so that it is facing you.
Lift up the left side of the metal plate and slowly flip it over the right edge of the device. To prevent damage, do not lift the metal plate straight up or use force. As shown in the second picture, the fan is attached to the metal plate and connected to the logic board next to the power connector.
Since many people have had serious problems with the fan power connnector breaking, it is advisable to NOT try to disconnect the fan power connector. Be VERY careful with this connector. It is extremely fragile. If you absolutely have to disconnect the fan from the logic board, VERY carefully use a spudger or tweezers to do so.

How to remove Power Supply

Power supply shown in blue Start by removing the AC plug by lifting it straight up.

Using a spudger, unplug the cable that supplies the motherboard with power. There's a clip to release the locking mechanism; make sure to press and release the clip before pulling up on the connector.

Then, using the same spudger, unplug the HDD power cable. If you're not used to working with data plugs in tight spaces it could be a good idea to remove the HDD first.

Lift the power supply out of its mountings. The mounts can snag the motherboard somewhat. Just fiddle it a little and it will come loose.

How to Remove the hard drive

HDD is an abbreviation for "hard disk drive."
Before removing the HDD, remove the temperature sensor that is mounted directly on the
hard drive. The sensor is attached to the hard drive using adhesive tape and a protective
foam cushion.
Peel off the foam and set the sensor aside. Be gentle with the foam because you will
reuse it to connect the sensor to the new HDD.

Lift the HDD out of the device and disconnect the two SATA cables from the HDD.

Using a Phillips #00 screwdriver, remove the four metal spacers (pegs) from the old HDD and install them in the same locations on the new HDD.

If the new HDD is thinner than the old HDD, you may need to unscrew the spacers a few turns to prevent the HDD from rattling around in the device.

Place the temperature sensor in approximately the same position on the new HDD as on the old HDD. Cover the sensor with the foam, using adhesive tape if necessary.
Make sure the surface of the sensor is flat against the metal hard drive enclosure.
To save power and reduce heat waste, use a "green" (power-saving) hard drive or a low-speed (5400 RPM) hard drive.

It is possible to test the device's functionality before fully reassembling it. To do so, reconnect the fan and replace the metal casing (without installing the screws).
To prevent electrical shock and overheating, complete this step before turning the device on.
After the Time Capsule is reassembled, format the new HDD using Airport Utility. It may be necessary to perform a hard reset on the Time Capsule.

Kindle Fire HDX 7 – Disassembling procedure

Kindle Fire HDX 7 – Disassembling procedure – How to remove the back cover – How to remove the battery

Kindle Fire HDX 7:  disassembling procedure 

Remove the speaker cover.
The cover is secured by two tabs at either end and adhesive tape in the center.
Gently pry at the tabs and insert a spudger between the cover and the kindle body.

Counting the six T3 torx screws from the left, remove numbers 1, 3, 4 and 6. Leave 2 and 5 (the outer pair of the middle four). Keep them safe.

Working around the edge of the screen with a spudger, release the tabs securing the back.

You may find it best to start with the sides, working down from the top. Then release two tabs either side of the camera before tackling the bottom.
In the photos, the positions of the tabs are shown by pieces of red tape. These photos show the device with nothing but the screen removed and are for information only – you will not see this view.
Don't insert the spudger further than necessary at the top around the camera or you may damage the reset button contacts.
Once all the clips are free the back is still secured to the back of the battery with double sided tape. release this slowly and gently. Do not apply and sharp or hard instruments to the battery in order to hasten the release.

Carefuly ifting the back, you will find that it's still attached to the motherboard by a ribbon. Remove the tape which secures the connector, the lift the connector off the motherboard socket.

Try not to allow the tape to fold over and stick to the front of the connector as you may not notice this when you try to connect it, and any adhesive on the connector pins may result in a poor connection.

If you need to replace these components, remove the power button and micro-USB port cables using a spudger. If not, skip this step.

Take care as these are delicate.

If you need to replace the speakers, remove the two remaining screws from Step 2, then lift them out. Otherwise, skip this step.
Pull off the two antenna cables from the motherboard and the tape which holds them to the motherboard.

Lift off the connectors to the front facing camera and the light sensor, both at the middle top of the motherboard. Lift out the camera and keep it safe.

Remove 9 screws securing the mother board.
Note that these screws seem to be something between T5 and T6 and may not even be Torx.
Unless you have a precisely fitting screwdriver bit, press hard in order to prevent it slipping and stripping the head. If you do so, you may be able to remove the screw with a flat bladed screwdriver bit.

Lift the motherboard from the left hand end. There are two connectors under the right hand end which you can then lift off.

On reassembly, very gently pull these connectors' ribbon cables in order to gain sufficient slack that you can reconnect the connectors. Feed these ribbons back where they came from as you lower the motherboard, taking great care that they don't become disconnected again, otherwise the screen won't work.

Gently lift the battery connector off the two metal pegs on either side. The battery is held on with a strong adhesive. Lift it very gently with spudgers in order to pry it loose.

This step will take time and patience. Don't rush it. The best way is to apply firm but gentle pressure at several points along one edge. Nothing may seem to happen, but the adhesive will gradually be giving. Once you can get a spudger underneath you can apply pressure more locally. On no account apply a hard or sharp tool directly to the battery.
 Once the old battery is out of the kindle, insert the new battery and put the kindle back together in reverse order.

Apple MacBook Pro 13 – Disassembling procedure – How to replace the optical drive

Apple MacBook Pro 13:  DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE 

Remove the following ten screws:

Three 14.4 mm Phillips #00 screws

Three 3.5 mm Phillips #00 screws

Four 3.5 mm shouldered Phillips#00 screws

Use your fingers to pry the lower case away from the body of the MacBook near the vent. Remove the lower case.

Use the edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector upwards from its socket on the logic board. It is useful to pry upward on both short sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket. Be careful with the corners of the connectors, they can be easily broken off.

Bend the battery cable slightly away from its socket on the logic board so it does not accidentally connect itself while you work.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the AirPort/Bluetooth ribbon cable connector up from its socket on the logic board. Carefully pull the camera cable out of its socket on the logic board. Though not recommended by iFixit staff, some users opt to omit this step completely. For information on this, see the step comments. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board. Pulling it upward may damage the logic board or the cable itself.

Carefully move the AirPort/Bluetooth ribbon cable out of the way as you peel the camera cable off the adhesive securing it to the subwoofer and the AirPort/Bluetooth bracket. De-route the camera cable out from under the retaining finger molded into the AirPort/Bluetooth bracket.

Use the tip of a spudger to pry the antenna connector closest to the logic board up from its socket on the AirPort/Bluetooth board. De-route the antenna cable from under the finger molded into the AirPort/Bluetooth bracket.

Remove the following five screws:

Two 10.3 mm Phillips screws
Two 3.1 mm Phillips screws
One 5 mm Phillips screw

Pull the AirPort/Bluetooth assembly and the Subwoofer upward near the center of the side of the optical drive until they clear each other. Move the AirPort/Bluetooth assembly and the subwoofer away from the top of the optical drive.

Pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable out from under the retaining finger near the side of the optical drive. Pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable upward to disconnect it from the logic board.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the hard drive cable connector up from its socket on the logic board. Bend the hard drive cable away from the optical drive. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Remove the three 2.7 mm Phillips screws securing the optical drive to the upper case. Pull the optical drive upward from its edge closest to the display and remove it from the upper case.

Pull the optical drive cable away from the optical drive.

Be sure to pull on the connector, not the cable itself. Remove the two black Phillips #0 screws securing the small metal mounting bracket. Transfer this bracket to your new optical drive.

HTC Touch Pro 2 – Disassembling procedure

HTC Touch Pro 2 – Disassembling procedure – How to remove the battery – How to remove the display – how to remove the key board

Remove the back cover by applying pressure and sliding upward. Lift the back cover up and away from the phone.

Remove the battery by lifting upward from the slot located on the right hand side.

Using a T5 screwdriver, remove the four screws in corners as shown. Lift the top portion of the rear case.

There is a ribbon attached on the back of this part that requires caution to remove.

Using a plastic opening tool, detach the plastic casing from keyboard. This may require some force. Using a spudger or other thin tool, carefully pry up ZIF connectors as shown. This will allow the black ribbons to detach from the keyboard. Slide the two parts away from each other so that the black ribbons slide through the slots and you will now have housing into two parts.

Peel the off yellow ribbon slowly. Unscrew the fours screws in red squares (two in each square) using a 00 screwdriver. After the screws are out you will be able to easily take off the small metal pieces.

Gently peel off the yellow tape. Carefully pull the dual black strip off using force. Behind the dual black strip is very sticky piece of grey tape. Use tweezers with a grip at end to peel it off, be careful not to rip the grey tape.

Lift up the metal hinges up. Lift the keyboard frame off separating the key board from the screen.

Unscrew the two screws shown using a 00 phillips screwdriver. Wedge a flat head screwdriver or metal prying tool between the flat face and rounded edge of the phone casing. Then, slide and pry around the entire piece until the face comes off.

Use a spudger to lift up the three black latches that secure the flat electrical wire. Then, pull the wire out of the latches being careful not to rip them. Carefully, peel the silver electric tape off (force required).

21inch T2S08 CHASSIS CTV circuit – How to enter the service mode, service adjustments circuit diagram WITH NICAM &TELETEXT

Each time a receiver requires servicing the high voltage should be checked. It is recommended the reading of the high voltage be recorded as a part of the service record. It is important to use an accurate and reliable high voltage meter.

When replacing a high voltage resistor (metal oxide resistor) on circuit board, keep the resistor APP. 10mm (1/2 in.) away from circuit board.

CHIPs

ST92195
The ST92195 microcontrollers are developed and manufactured by STMicroelectronics using a proprietary n-well HCMOS process. Their performance  derives from the use of flexible 256-register programming model for ultra-fast context switching and real-time event response. The intelligent on-chip peripherals offload the ST9 core from I/O and data management processing tasks allowing critical application tasks to get the maximum use of core resources. TheST92195 MCU support low power consumption and low voltage operation for power-efficient and low-cost embedded systems.

28 fully-programmable I/Os

4 channels Analog/Digital Converter.

STV2246H
The STV224XH is fully bus-controlled IC for TV that include PIF, SIF, Luma, Chroma and Deflection processing functions. Used with a vertical frame booster (TDA8174A for a 90° chassis, STV9306 for a 110° chassis), they allow multi-standard (BG/DK/I/MN/LL’, PAL/SECAM/NTSC) sets to be designed with very few external components and no manual adjustments.

I²C Bus Control
PIF Circuit with PLL Demodulation (Positive and Negative Video)
SIF Circuit with QSS Structure, FM Demodulation and AM Demodulation for France
Intercarrier Capability and Built-in Sound Band pass
Sound Subcarrier Output for Stereo Chassis (FM, NICAM)
Integrated Chroma Filters and Luma Delay Line and Integrated Chroma Delay Line
3 channels input Video Switch and 2 channels CVBS output
OSD RGB Inputs and external RGB Inputs Interface
PAL/SECAM/NTSC Chroma Demodulators
Black Stretch and peaking Circuit.

Automatic Cut-off Current Loop, manual Cut-off possible for low-cost applications

Two Horizontal Deflection PLLs

APR (Automatic RGB Peak Regulation) or RGB Peak Limitation Function.

STV9306A
The STV9306 is a fully I2C controlled vertical deflection IC designed forusein110°, 4/3 or 16/9 CRT applications. It integrates both the vertical deflection and E/W correction circuitries necessary in design of a 110° chassis.

Fully I2C controlled
Internal flyback generator (UPTO60V) and DC Coupled operation
Self adapted sawtooth (50/60Hz)
Vertical linearity, amplitude and centering adjustments.
Horizontal width, pincushion, trapezoid and corner adjustments. Breathing correction.

CD7522CS
The CD7522CS is a stereo 2× 3W BTL audio amplifier, specially designed for high quality sound TV applications. Features of the CD7522CS include Stand-by and Volume control functions.

2×3W output power RL = 8Ω @THD = 0.5% VCC = 10V
Standby and volume control function
Low turn-on turn-off pop noise
Low voltage supply ≤ 14V
Thermal overload protection.

STV8216
This chip included three main parts:
TV Sound Demodulator: provides all the necessary circuitry for the demodulation of audio transmissions of European and Asian terrestrial TV broadcasts. The various transmission standards are automatically detected and demodulated without user intervention.
Audio Processor: based on DSP technology independently controls loudspeaker, subwoofer and headphone signals. It offers basic and advanced features, such as a ST Wide Surround, Equalizer, Automatic Loudness and Smart Volume Control for television viewer comfort. The STV8226/36 versions can perform additionally the SRS 3D Surround for stereo and mono signals.
Audio Matrix: 3 stereo and 1 mono external analog audio inputs to loudspeakers and headphone, with 2 stereo external analog audio outputs (SCART compatible).

NICAM, AM, FM Mono and FM 2 carrier stereo demodulators for all sound carriers between 4.5 and 7MHz Mono input provided for optimum AM demodulation performances Demodulation controlled by automatic standard recognition system
Sound IF AGC with wide range, over modulation and carrier offset recovery
Smart volume control, smart volume control, 5-band equalizer bass/treble control, automatic loudness control Loudspeaker and Headphone outputs with volume/balance controls and beeper
Subwoofer output with volume control and programmable bandwidth, spatial Sound Effects (ST Wide Surround and Pseudo-Stereo), low-noise audio mutes and switches
I²C Bus-controlled, single and standard 27 MHz crystal oscillator, Power supplies: 3.3V Digital, 5V or 8V Analog, embedded 3.3V regulators.

SERVICE MODE&ADJUSTMENTs
The Service-1 mode is entered by pressing the “SERVICE” key on remote control when the TV is in ON condition and not in any Menu mode. In service mode, by pressing “OK” key, Service-2 is accessed. By pressing “OK” key again, Serivice-3 is accessed. By pressing “PP” key, exit the Service mode.

WHITE BALANCE ADJUSTMENT
The items within the Service-1 mode can be accessed using P+/P- keys and the selected item can be modified by using V+/V- keys. The parameters controlled in the Service-1 menu are

a) Red Gain ( 0 ... 63 )
b) DC Red ( 0 .... 127)
c) Green Gain ( 0 .... 63)
d) DC Green ( 0 .... 127)
e) Blue Gain ( 0 .... 63)
f) DC Blue ( 0 .... 127)
g) APR_threshold (0….15)
h) LOGO ( the first show the length of logo, and the followed is the logo)
i) R-Cutoff (0…63)
j) G-Cutoff (0…63)

VIF ADJUSTMENT
When in Service-1 menu ,if “OK” key is pressed , Service-2 menu appears and the display is as follows.The parameters controlled in the Service-2 menu are:

a) Tuner AGC ( 0 ... 63 )
b) Horizontal position 50 Hz( 0 ... 63)
c) Vertical position 50 Hz (0…15)
d) Vertical amplitude 50Hz (0…63)
e) Vertical linearity 50Hz (0…63)
f) Horizontal position 60 Hz( 0 ... 63)
g) Vertical position 60 Hz (0…15)
h) Vertical amplitude 60 Hz (0…63)
i) Vertical linearity 60 Hz (0…63)
j) Sub-Bright Maximum (0…63)
k) Sub-Bright Minimum (0…63)
l) Sub Tint (0…63)
m) VCO Coarse ( 0 ... 15)
n) VCO Fine ( 0 ... 127 )
o) VCO Coarse L1( 0 ... 15)
p) VCO Fine L1( 0 ... 127 )

The display of Service-2 menu

The VCO status bar at the bottom of the screen appears only if either VCO Coarse item or VCO Fine item is selected. The VCO status is read from the Read register of STV223X/4X and guides whether to Increase / Decrease the VCO registers to attain VCO OK Status.
For doing VCO adjustment , Feed a 38.9MHZ Carrier as IF input and adjust VCO Coarse and fine parameters to get VCO OK Status.
If the cursor is in VCO Coarse or Fine, and the display shows VCO OK status, then pressing of AV” key will automatically put VCO fine to the Centre of the +60 to -60 KHz window.
For doing VCO L1 adjustment ,Feed a 33.9 MHZ carrier as IF input and adjust VCO Coarse L1 and VCO Fine L1 to get VCO OK Status.
If the cursor is in VCO Coarse L1 or Fine L1 , and the display shows VCO OK status, then pressing of “AV” key will automatically put VCO fine for L1 to the Centre of the +60 to -60 KHz window.  Another fast way of adjustment of VCO is to put the selection bar to either VCO Coarse or fine and press the
“AV” key. The VCO adjustment is done automatically. Similarly if you put the selection bar to VCO Coarse L1 or Fine L1 and press the “AV” key , the VCO L1 adjustment will be done automatically.
NOTE: Below items are not used in this chassis:

Vertical position 50 Hz
Vertical amplitude 50Hz
Vertical linearity 50Hz
Vertical position 60 Hz
Vertical amplitude 60 Hz
Vertical linearity 60 Hz

STV9306 ADJUSTMENT
When in Service-2 menu, if “OK” key is pressed, Service-3 menu appears and the display is as follows, if the IC STV9306 has not been detected, then Service-4 (design menu) menu will appear.

Vertical amplitude for 50Hz signal.
2) Vertical amplitude for 60Hz signal.
3) Vertical shift (internal separated by 50Hz and 60Hz)
4) S Correction.
5) C Correction.
6) Horizontal width adjustment.
7) Pincushion Correction.
8) E/W Sharp Correction.
9) Trapezium Correction.

DESIGN OPTION SETTING
When in Service-3 menu, if “OK” key is pressed, Option menu appears and the display is as follows

OPTION1
b7 = Over modulation (0=Disable, 1=Enable, it’s suggested to set it to 0 normally.)
b5 = P/N/S crystals application (0=2 Crystals, 1= 1 Crystals, according the quantity of crystal used for color decoding in chassis.)
b4 = Cutoff Loop (0= OFF, 1=ON, it’s suggested to set it to 1 normally)
b3 = Safety Reset (0=Active, 1=Non, it’s suggested to set it to 0 normally)
b2 = MONO IN (0 = OFF, 1= ON, Depend on the sound decoding solution used in chassis. )
b1 = Sound Demodulation (0 = Intercarrier/MONO, 1 =QSS/NICAM, depend on the sound decoding solution used in chassis.)
b0 = logo display (0 =OFF, 1= ON, it’s suggested to set it to 0 normally.)
OPTION2 (set to 0 by default)
b5 = HALF_CONTRAST (0 = OFF, 1=ON)
b4 = Color 6dB (0 = OFF, 1 = ON)
b3 = APR Feature (0 = ON, 1= OFF)
b2 = Black Stretch (0 = ON, 1= OFF)
b1 = Auto Flesh (0 = ON, 1= OFF)
b0 = Coring (0 = ON, 1 = OFF)
OPTION3
b7 =SMART (0 = OFF, 1=ON, it’s suggested to set it to 1 normally)
b5 = AVL (0 = OFF, 1=ON, it’s suggested to set it to 0 normally.)
b4 = PIF overmodulation (0 = OFF, 1= ON, it’s suggested to set it to 0 normally.)
b3 = Market_France --- secam LL (0 = OFF, 1 = ON, depend on the solution of chassis.)
b2 = Manual/Auto cutoff (0 = Manual, 1 = Auto cutoff, depend on the CRT for chassis.)
b1 = Mute pin low/high –to control the mute of speaker (0 = low, 1 = high, depend on the solution of chassis.)
OPTION4b6 = WIDE MODE (0 = OFF, 1=ON, it’s suggested to set it to 0 normally.)

b4 = SCART2 (0 = OFF, 1=ON, depend on the solution of chassis.)

b3 = RGB (0 = OFF, 1= ON, depend on the solution of chassis.)
b2 = SVHS (0 = OFF, 1= ON, depend on the solution of chassis.)
b1 = AV2 (0 = OFF, 1= ON, depend on the solution of chassis.)

b0 = AV1 (0 = OFF, 1= ON, depend on the solution of chassis.)
OPTION5
There are 8 bits used in OPTION 5. They are b0, b1, b2, b3, b4, b5, b6 and b7.
For b0, normally, ST suggests to set it to 0.
For b1, b2, they are used to select teletext languages.
For b3, it’s used to enable AV3 and SVHS. When b3 is set to 0, SVHS is enabled. When b3 is set to 1 in binary, the value is 8 in decimal. AV3 is enabled.
For b4, b5, b6 and b7 of OPTION 5 are also used to set the brightness of background in teletext mode. When b4 b5 b6 and b7 are all set to 0, the brightness of teletext background is the same as brightness of TV background. When b4, b5, b6 and b7 are all set to 1, it’s the maximum brightness of teletext background. It’s the minimum brightness of teletext background when b4 is set to 1, and b5, b6 and b7 are all set to 0. you can set these 4 bits according to your favorite brightness of teletext background.

A for 11 OSD languages CPU ST92195C7B1/MNS and ST92195C7B1/MTH for east Europe, the setting of
the b1 and b2 is listed as below.
1. If b1 = b2 = 0, then the TEXT languages like “ENGLISH, FRENCH, SWEDISH, CZECH, GERMAN, PORTUGUESE (SPANISH), ITALIAN, RUMANIAN” can be decoded;
2. If b1=1, b2=0, then the TEXT languages like “ENGLISH, RUSSIAN (BULGARIAN), HUNGARIAN, TURKISH, GERMAN, PORTUGUESE (SPANISH), ITALIAN, RUMANIAN” can be decoded.
3. If b1=0, b2=1, then the TEXT languages like “POLISH, RUSSIAN (BULGARIAN), SWEDISH, SLOVAK, GERMAN, SLOVENIAN, LITHUANIAN, RUMANIAN” can be decoded.
4. If b1 = b2 =1, then the TEXT languages like “POLISH, RUSSIAN (BULGARIAN), SWEDISH, CZECH, GERMAN, CROATIAN, LETTISH, RUMANIAN” can be decoded.

B. for 12 OSD languages CPU ST92195C7B1/MNU and ST92195C7B1/MOK (SHRINK VERSION) for Western Europe, the setting of the b1 and b2 is as below.
1. If b1 = b2 = 0, then the TEXT languages like “ENGLISH, FRENCH, FINNISH, CZECH, GERMAN, PORTUGUESE (SPANISH), ITALIAN, GREEK” can be decoded;
2. If b1=1, b2=0, then the TEXT languages like “ENGLISH, FRENCH, DANISH, NORWEGIAN, GERMAN, PORTUGUESE (SPANISH), ITALIAN, GREEK” can be decoded.
3. If b1=0, b2=1, then the TEXT languages like “POLISH, FRENCH, SWEDISH, CZECH, HOLLAND, SERBIAN, ITALIAN, RUMANIAN” can be decoded.
4. If b1 = b2 =1, then the TEXT languages like “POLISH, FRENCH, SWEDISH, CZECH, GERMAN, PORTUGUESE (SPANISH), LETTISH, RUMANIAN” can be decoded.
ST Text
b0 is used to change the process for adjusting Auto gain.
1) When CPU ST92195C7B1/MOK is used, the b0 is suggested to set to 0, the gain table for shrink version should be selected.
2) When CPU ST92195C7B1/MNU is used, the b0 is suggested to set to 1, the gain table for normal version will be selected.
b1, b2, b3 = select the correct process, only for ST engineer adjustment.
ROM_M6_P_valid | OSDEPROM_M6_R_valid | ROM_M6_R_valid | EPROM_M6_R_valid
EPROM_M6_R_valid | ROMLESS_H5_P_valid | ROM_H5_P_valid | EPROM_M6_A_valid
  note: ROMLESS_M6_R_valid == ROM_M6_R_valid*/
b4 = Color transition for SVHS of STV224XX (0 = b5 is available, 1 = b5 is not available, and “SHARPNESS” is no feature.)
b5 = (0 = STV224XH, 1 = STV224XC/D/E).

b6 = Tuner Drift Correction (0 = OFF, 1 = ON.)
b7 = RGB/DVD display on screen (0 = RGB, 1 = DVD.)
HPOS OSD,
Adjust horizontal position of OSD.
VPOS OSD,
Adjust vertical position of OSD.
HPOS TXT,
Adjust horizontal position of teletext.
VPOS TXT,
Adjust vertical position of teletext.
HOTEL MODE,
To set HOTEL MODE ON or OFF. When HOTEL MODE is enabled. The end user can not make any adjustment of items in menu INSTALL, AUDIO and ORGANIZE. Menu INSTALL and AUDIO will disappear automatically.
Volume Limit,
To set maximum volume of HOTEL MODE. It’s only available when HOTEL MODE is enabled.
SndSt 1
b0, b1, b2, b3 of SndSt 1 are used to set the sound output level at pin 26 and pin 27 of STV8216 with RF signal. When b0, b1, b2, b3 of SndSt 1 are all set 0, the minimum sound output level will be got at pin 26 and pin 27 of STV8216 with RF signal. When b0, b1, b2, b3 of SndSt 1 are all set 1, it’s 15 in decimal. The maximum sound output level will be got at pin 26 and pin 27 of STV8216 with RF signal. b4, b5, b6, b7 of SndSt 1 are used to set the “SURROUND” gain at pin 26 and pin 27 of STV8216 with RF & AV signal. When b4, b5, b6, b7 of SndSt 1 are all set 0, the minimum “SURROUND” gain will be got at pin 26 and pin 27 of STV8216 with RF & AV signal. When b4, b5, b6, b7 of SndSt 1 are all set 1, it’s 240 in decimal.
The maximum “SURROUND” gain will be got at pin 26 and pin 27 of STV8216 with RF signal.

Schematic diagram

SndSt 2
b0, b2, b2, b3 of SndSt 2 are used to set the sound output level at pin 26 and pin 27 of STV8216 with AV signal. When b0, b2, b2, b3 of SndSt 1 are all set 0, the minimum sound output level will be got at pin 26 and pin 27 of STV8216 with AV signal. When b0, b2, b2, b3 of SndSt 1 are all set 1, it’s 15 in decimal. The maximum sound output level will be got at pin 26 and pin 27 of STV8216 with AV signal.
b4, b5, b6, b7 of SndSt 2 are used to set the “EQUALIZER” gain at pin 26 and pin 27 of STV8216 with RF & AV signal. When b4, b5, b6, b7 of SndSt 1 are all set 0, the maximum “EQUALIZER” gain will be got at pin 26 and pin 27 of STV8216 with RF & AV signal. When b4, b5, b6, b7 of SndSt 1 are all set 1, it’s 240 in decimal.
The minimum “EQUALIZER” gain will be got at pin 26 and pin 27 of STV8216 with RF & AV signal.
LL1 MAGC,
Just for SECAM LL1 SIF AGC setting purpose in STV8216. No available for PAL and NTSC system.
When the item “LL1 MAGC” is set to OFF, the SIF AGC of STV8216 is set by software.
When the item “LL1 MAGC” is set to ON, the SIF AGC of STV8216 can be set manually. The following steps can be followed when set this item.
1) To get a RF SECAM LL1 signal without sound modulation, only sound carrier is available. And put the signal to input of tuner in CTV 5 chassis.
2) To press “SERVICE” key on remote control to enter service menu. And select the item “LL1 MAGC” by P+ or P- key on remote control.
Set the item “LL1 MAGC” from “OFF” to “ON” by V+ or V- key on remote control. service command,
1) “PP”----exit
2) “OK”---- switch between the service menu

3) “AV”---- auto VCO adjust
4) “MUTE” ---- one line gain
Enter service menu with user remote control,
1) Press key “Sleep” on remote control to set sleep time to “00:50”.
2) Within 5 seconds, press local key “V+” in TV set to enter service menu.
3) Adjust expecting item as the same as service remote control.

Apple Mighty Mouse - How to clean Apple Mighty mouse - How to disassemble the mouse

Apple Mighty Mouse  How to clean Apple Mighty Mouse Scroll ball

Before you continue, turn off the mouse using the slide switch underneath the mouse.
Before disassembling the mouse, first try scrubbing the mouse ball with a toothbrush and isopropyl alcohol. Be sure to get the bristles between the ball and the housing as this will help remove dirt and dust that is clogging the rollers inside.
You can also try blowing into the "ball hole" with a can of compressed air.

How to disassemble Apple Mighty Mouse 

Begin by flipping the mouse over, as shown.

Remove the bottom panel by pushing the release latch down and to the left.
You may need to pry the edge of the bottom panel up in the indicated area. Remove the batteries.

Insert spudger between button and outer white ring.

Twist the spudger to separate the ring from the body of the mouse. Work the spudger around the whole mouse until the ring is completely detached.
You must use some force to break the adhesive that holds the ring in place, but try not to crack the plastic ring.
You will have to glue this ring back to the mouse body when reassembling it. Cyanoacrylate adhesive works well.

Undo two clips using a spudger. Similarly, use the spudger to unhook two pivot points.

Carefully separate the two halves; do not pull on the flex cables.

Gently unlock the latches with a fingernail or a spudger. Do not stress the latch, or it might break.

Disconnect both flex cables.

The second photo shows how far to pull the latches.
When reassembling the mouse, both cables should be inserted into the connectors contact-side-up.

Remove three Phillips #00 screws that attach the scrollball assembly to the upper shell.

Pry the white ball cover out of the black housing with a small flat-head screwdriver.

There are small loose parts in the Assembly, be careful when removing the cover. The small magnetic wheels are especially easy to lose.

Remove the four rollers from the black housing with tweezers. They are held in place magnetically.

Clean all parts in isopropyl alcohol, allow them to dry, and reassemble the device.
When reassembling the Assembly, the Rollers are placed back with the back wheel end touching the metal tabs.

Philips PSU SD21(3122 427 24420) - PLCD170P2: Philips 26PF4310/10, 26PF7521D/10, 26PF3320/10 SMPS schematic

12V output
Short-circuit protected by 2.5A fuse
Over voltage protection when output voltage is more than 40% above nominal value.

Vaudio (+18V) output
Short-circuit protected by 2.5A fuse
Over voltage protection when output voltage is more than 40% above nominal value.

24V output
Short-circuit proof with auto-restart
Over voltage protection when output voltage is more than 40% above nominal value.

Vbolton
Short-circuit protected by 2.5A fuse
Over voltage protection when output voltage is more than 40% above nominal value.

+3V3STBY output
Short-circuit proof with auto-restart
Over voltage protection when output voltage is more than 40% above nominal value.

Cooling
Convection cooling cools the unit; therefore forced cooling is not required.

Consumption
STANDBY Mode: Less than 1 Watt at 230 Vac.
Normal Mode: Nominal Power =TBD W at 230 Vac.

Output specification

The following notes are applicable for the power outputs.
1. Nominal current absorption is defining the nominal worst-case unit operating temperature. The nominal current absorption defines the maximum allowed component temperature for compliance according the safety requirements.
2. The tolerances include line and load regulations.

The ripple is a peak-to-peak value measured in a bandwidth from 0 to 20 MHz.

The noise is a peak-to-peak value measured above 20 MHz.
3. Tested by dc loading side parallel with a 10 µF Electrolytic Capacitor and a 0.1 µF Ceramic Capacitor.
Power for Vamb only available when no power is requested on the Vbolton.
4. The input power will be less than 1 W at 230 Va c in this situation.
5. The maximum current is allowed for a period of 300 sec. The nominal current shall be the average current over any period of 3600 sec.

This LCD Power Supply Unit (PLCD150) is a total power solution providing all voltages and powers required by LCD TV applications.

Signal Levels
The control signals shall be driven by open collector / open drain type circuits (or equivalent). The drive requirements are:
3V3 Logic: Open Collector: +2k2 pull-up resistor to +3.3 V.

Power Down Signal (POWER_DOWN)
The unit will generate a POWER_DOWN signal when the mains input is removed.  POWER_DOWN will go from high to low at least 15 ms before any of the output
voltages starts collapsing.

The unit is controlled via a digital input: STANDBY# at the secondary side:

Schematic

Click on the pictures to magnify

Sony DVD receiver DAV-DZ77T – Power amplifier and SMPS circuit diagram – Brazilian model

Using ICS - CXD 9883M, CXD9788AR, LC890561W, MR4020-7103 (SMPS control)

This system incorporates the matrix surround sound decoder adaptive Dolby * Digital and Dolby Pro Logic (II) and DTS ** Digital Surround System. In some cases, CD-R / CD-RW / DVD-R / DVD-RW / DVD + R / DVD + RW discs can not be played on this system due to the quality of the recording or the physical condition of the disc, or characteristics of the recording device and the authoring program.  Also, the disc will not play if it is not finalized correctly. For more information, refer to the operating instructions of the recording device.  Note that some playback functions may not work with some DVD + RWs / DVD + Rs, even though they have been finalized correctly. In this case, watch the contents of the disc using playback. Also, some DATA CDs / DATA DVDs created in Packet Write format can be played back. This system is designed to play discs that conform to the standard of discs compact discs (CD). Recently, several music discs encoded with rights are being marketed by some manufacturers. However, it should be noted that, between these types of discs, there are those that do not conform to the CD standard, and are not possible to reproduce in this system.

• This system can play Multi Session CDs when an MP3 file is recorded in the first session. Any other MP3 file recorded in subsequent sessions can also be played back. • This system can play Multi Session CDs when a JPEG image file is recorded in the first session. Any other JPEG image file recorded in the can be played back.

• If MP3 files and JPEG image files in the music CD or video CD format recorded in the first session, only the first session will be played back.

This system plays DVDs from REGION 4 according to the indication located on the back of the the appliance.  DVD VIDEOs with the indication can also be played on this system. If you DVD VIDEOs with other region codes, the [Playback prohibited by area limitations.] will appear on the the TV screen. Some DVD VIDEOs may not display the region code, even if their reproduction is prohibited by area limits.

SMPS Schematic and PWB

Power amplifier schematic