TESTING COMPONENTS
1. MOTOR COMPONENTS
DRIVE MOTOR:
Generation Test – all Landice drive motors (110 & 220) are direct current or DC. A DC drive motor can produce (generate) a DC voltage when it’s manually rotated. The DC output is linear to the speed the motor is rotated. To perform the “Generation Test” follow these steps:
1. Un-plug treadmill from wall outlet.
2. Disconnect drive motor from motor control board.
3. Connect DMM (Digital Multi-Meter) to the drive motor wires.
Note: Your DMM should be set on Volts DC (VDC)
Motor plus (+) = Red test lead from DMM
Motor minus (-) = Black test lead DMM
4. Position your DMM so you can read it while standing on the treadbelt.
5. Start to manual push / run on the treadbelt.
Note: You are spinning the drive motor manually. The faster you spin the motor, the higher the output of DC voltage will register on your DMM.
110 VAC treadmills use a 90 VDC drive motor. For every mile per hour you spin the drive motor you will generate approximately 10 VDC output. So, at 1 mph you will measure 10VDC +/- and at 9mph you will measure 90VDC +/-. 220 VAC treadmills use a 180 VDC drive motor (double the input voltage, double the size of the drive motor). For every mile per hour (mph) you spin the drive motor you will generate approximately 20 VDC output. So, at 1.0mph you will measure 20 VDC +/- and at 9.0mph you will measure 180 VDC +/-.
If you measure very low DC voltage or zero DC voltage, first check the drive motor brushes for condition. Motor brushes are the leading cause for drive motor failure. If the motor brushes are worn below 3/8” in length, replace them.
Alternate Test 1: Attach 9 volt battery to motor leads. There should be motor movement.
Alternate Test 2: Unplug Treadmill. Disconnect Drive Motor wires. Disconnect Drive Belt. Hold black and white wires together. Spin flywheel. There should be resistance when wires are connected.
DRIVE MOTOR:
Generation Test – all Landice drive motors (110 & 220) are direct current or DC. A DC drive motor can produce (generate) a DC voltage when it’s manually rotated. The DC output is linear to the speed the motor is rotated. To perform the “Generation Test” follow these steps:
1. Un-plug treadmill from wall outlet.
2. Disconnect drive motor from motor control board.
3. Connect DMM (Digital Multi-Meter) to the drive motor wires.
Note: Your DMM should be set on Volts DC (VDC)
Motor plus (+) = Red test lead from DMM
Motor minus (-) = Black test lead DMM
4. Position your DMM so you can read it while standing on the treadbelt.
5. Start to manual push / run on the treadbelt.
Note: You are spinning the drive motor manually. The faster you spin the motor, the higher the output of DC voltage will register on your DMM.
110 VAC treadmills use a 90 VDC drive motor. For every mile per hour you spin the drive motor you will generate approximately 10 VDC output. So, at 1 mph you will measure 10VDC +/- and at 9mph you will measure 90VDC +/-. 220 VAC treadmills use a 180 VDC drive motor (double the input voltage, double the size of the drive motor). For every mile per hour (mph) you spin the drive motor you will generate approximately 20 VDC output. So, at 1.0mph you will measure 20 VDC +/- and at 9.0mph you will measure 180 VDC +/-.
If you measure very low DC voltage or zero DC voltage, first check the drive motor brushes for condition. Motor brushes are the leading cause for drive motor failure. If the motor brushes are worn below 3/8” in length, replace them.
Alternate Test 1: Attach 9 volt battery to motor leads. There should be motor movement.
Alternate Test 2: Unplug Treadmill. Disconnect Drive Motor wires. Disconnect Drive Belt. Hold black and white wires together. Spin flywheel. There should be resistance when wires are connected.
ELEVATION MOTOR
Using your voltmeter measure the input voltage (AC) to the elevation motor. Secure the black (negative) meter probe to a good chassis ground. Place the red meter probe on the RED wire in the elevation harness. Press the elevation DOWN key and you should get 120 /220VAC. Place the red meter probe on the BLACK wire in the elevation harness. Press the elevation UP key and you should get 120/220VAC. If the elevation motor is getting the proper AC voltage in but does not turn, replace it.
Using your voltmeter measure the input voltage (AC) to the elevation motor. Secure the black (negative) meter probe to a good chassis ground. Place the red meter probe on the RED wire in the elevation harness. Press the elevation DOWN key and you should get 120 /220VAC. Place the red meter probe on the BLACK wire in the elevation harness. Press the elevation UP key and you should get 120/220VAC. If the elevation motor is getting the proper AC voltage in but does not turn, replace it.
ELEVATION POTENTIOMETER
Remove the elevation pot from elevation motor but do not disconnect the brown, orange and blue wires. Using a digital voltmeter set to ohms (Ω), place meter probes on the pot prongs with the
(orange) and (brown) wires. You are measuring resistance so you do not need to observe polarity.
# Turn pot shaft completely clockwise (0-1000Ohm).
# Turn pot shaft completely counterclockwise (1000-0Ohm).
Now place meter probes on prongs (orange) and (blue) wires.
# Turn shaft of the potentiometer completely clockwise (1000-0Ohm).
# Turn the shaft in completely counterclockwise (0-1000Ohm)
If the elevation potentiometer does not indicate the proper resistance readings, it is must be replaced.
Remove the elevation pot from elevation motor but do not disconnect the brown, orange and blue wires. Using a digital voltmeter set to ohms (Ω), place meter probes on the pot prongs with the
(orange) and (brown) wires. You are measuring resistance so you do not need to observe polarity.
# Turn pot shaft completely clockwise (0-1000Ohm).
# Turn pot shaft completely counterclockwise (1000-0Ohm).
Now place meter probes on prongs (orange) and (blue) wires.
# Turn shaft of the potentiometer completely clockwise (1000-0Ohm).
# Turn the shaft in completely counterclockwise (0-1000Ohm)
If the elevation potentiometer does not indicate the proper resistance readings, it is must be replaced.
Note: Potentiometer should fit snugly into motor. Check for tight fit.
Also check that nut on Potentiometer is tight.
2. MOTOR CONTROL COMPONENTS
PWM MOTOR CONTROL
The PWM board runs on AC voltage. The AC voltage is delivered to the PWM board across two input terminals marked L1 and L2. Confirm AC voltage into the PWM by measuring across these terminals with your voltmeter. You should measure 120/220VAC input. The DC voltage comes out of the PWM board (going to the drive motor) across two output terminals marked A+ and A-.
Confirm DC voltage out by measuring across these two terminals with your voltmeter. You should measure 90/180VDC output. If the PWM board is getting the proper AC voltage in but does not supply any DC voltage out, it must be replaced.
SCR MOTOR CONTROL
The SCR board runs on AC voltage. The AC voltage is delivered to the SCR board across two input terminals marked HOT and NEUT. Power up treadmill in OLS mode and bring displayed speed to the max. Confirm AC voltage into the SCR board by measuring across these terminals with your voltmeter. You should measure 120/220VAC across these terminals. The DC voltage comes out of the SCR board (going to the drive motor) across two output terminals marked MTR+ and MTR-. Confirm DC voltage out by measuring across these two terminals with your voltmeter. You should measure 90/180VDC output. If the SCR board is getting the proper AC voltage in but does not supply any DC voltage out, it must be replaced.
RELAY BOARD
The relay board runs on AC voltage. The AC voltage is delivered to the relay board across two input terminals marked HOT and NEUT. The AC voltage then passes through one fuse or two (220 models) and lights the AC PWR led light. If this LED light is not on, first check the fuse/s. If the fuse/s are good measure across the input terminals HOT and NEUTRAL to confirm proper AC voltage in (110/220VAC). If the relay board is receiving the proper AC voltage in but does not function properly, it must be replaced.
PWM MOTOR CONTROL
The PWM board runs on AC voltage. The AC voltage is delivered to the PWM board across two input terminals marked L1 and L2. Confirm AC voltage into the PWM by measuring across these terminals with your voltmeter. You should measure 120/220VAC input. The DC voltage comes out of the PWM board (going to the drive motor) across two output terminals marked A+ and A-.
Confirm DC voltage out by measuring across these two terminals with your voltmeter. You should measure 90/180VDC output. If the PWM board is getting the proper AC voltage in but does not supply any DC voltage out, it must be replaced.
SCR MOTOR CONTROL
The SCR board runs on AC voltage. The AC voltage is delivered to the SCR board across two input terminals marked HOT and NEUT. Power up treadmill in OLS mode and bring displayed speed to the max. Confirm AC voltage into the SCR board by measuring across these terminals with your voltmeter. You should measure 120/220VAC across these terminals. The DC voltage comes out of the SCR board (going to the drive motor) across two output terminals marked MTR+ and MTR-. Confirm DC voltage out by measuring across these two terminals with your voltmeter. You should measure 90/180VDC output. If the SCR board is getting the proper AC voltage in but does not supply any DC voltage out, it must be replaced.
RELAY BOARD
The relay board runs on AC voltage. The AC voltage is delivered to the relay board across two input terminals marked HOT and NEUT. The AC voltage then passes through one fuse or two (220 models) and lights the AC PWR led light. If this LED light is not on, first check the fuse/s. If the fuse/s are good measure across the input terminals HOT and NEUTRAL to confirm proper AC voltage in (110/220VAC). If the relay board is receiving the proper AC voltage in but does not function properly, it must be replaced.
SPEED SENSOR
The speed sensor can be checked for proper operation by entering the Open Loop Speed Mode.
There is a yellow SPD LED mounted to either the relay board (HOME PWM models) or the SCR board (LTD and CLUB models). The light will flash ON and OFF when you rotate the drive motor flywheel slowly by hand. This indicates the proper operation of the speed sensor. If you do not get this flashing to occur, then check for proper speed sensor alignment. If this does not help, replace the speed sensor.
3. DISPLAY COMPONENTS
12 VDC POWER SUPPLY
Measure across the input terminals for AC line voltage (120/220VAC). Measure across the output wires for DC voltage (12.0VDC to 17.0VDC is acceptable). If you confirm proper input voltage (AC) and have no output voltage (DC) the DC power supply must be replaced.
UPPER DISPLAY BOARD
The upper display board is powered by DC voltage. On HOME treadmills this DC voltage is supplied by the DC power supply. On LTD/CLUB treadmills the SCR board supplies this DC voltage. Confirm the upper display is getting DC voltage delivered to it. If the display board has the proper DC voltage supplied and does not light, it must be replaced.
FACEPLATE
The faceplate has no mechanical or electrical components that can fail. However, if you press a key and it fails to respond check for proper display board spacing. The faceplate is designed as a passive panel. When the user presses a key (pushes through the faceplate) they activate a switch mounted on the upper display board. If the display board to face plate distance is too great, the display board switch will not be fully activated and result in a dead response. Small washers are placed between the display board and mounting studs to adjust this distance. This is performed at the factory but can be upset if disassembled in the field.
MEMBRANE PANEL
The membrane panel has small micro switches laminated inside that transmit the user’s commands into treadmill functions. Enter “Diagnostic Mode” to confirm proper operation of the membrane panel. In this test mode you will be able to check each key on the membrane panel. By pressing a key, you will hear an audible beep and also see a numeric code appear in the speed window. There is a numeric code assigned to each key on the panel (except the OFF key). For a complete list of these codes, see the chart on opposite page. If you do not hear a “BEEP” or see the proper code appear the key is bad and the membrane panel must be replaced.
The speed sensor can be checked for proper operation by entering the Open Loop Speed Mode.
There is a yellow SPD LED mounted to either the relay board (HOME PWM models) or the SCR board (LTD and CLUB models). The light will flash ON and OFF when you rotate the drive motor flywheel slowly by hand. This indicates the proper operation of the speed sensor. If you do not get this flashing to occur, then check for proper speed sensor alignment. If this does not help, replace the speed sensor.
3. DISPLAY COMPONENTS
12 VDC POWER SUPPLY
Measure across the input terminals for AC line voltage (120/220VAC). Measure across the output wires for DC voltage (12.0VDC to 17.0VDC is acceptable). If you confirm proper input voltage (AC) and have no output voltage (DC) the DC power supply must be replaced.
UPPER DISPLAY BOARD
The upper display board is powered by DC voltage. On HOME treadmills this DC voltage is supplied by the DC power supply. On LTD/CLUB treadmills the SCR board supplies this DC voltage. Confirm the upper display is getting DC voltage delivered to it. If the display board has the proper DC voltage supplied and does not light, it must be replaced.
FACEPLATE
The faceplate has no mechanical or electrical components that can fail. However, if you press a key and it fails to respond check for proper display board spacing. The faceplate is designed as a passive panel. When the user presses a key (pushes through the faceplate) they activate a switch mounted on the upper display board. If the display board to face plate distance is too great, the display board switch will not be fully activated and result in a dead response. Small washers are placed between the display board and mounting studs to adjust this distance. This is performed at the factory but can be upset if disassembled in the field.
MEMBRANE PANEL
The membrane panel has small micro switches laminated inside that transmit the user’s commands into treadmill functions. Enter “Diagnostic Mode” to confirm proper operation of the membrane panel. In this test mode you will be able to check each key on the membrane panel. By pressing a key, you will hear an audible beep and also see a numeric code appear in the speed window. There is a numeric code assigned to each key on the panel (except the OFF key). For a complete list of these codes, see the chart on opposite page. If you do not hear a “BEEP” or see the proper code appear the key is bad and the membrane panel must be replaced.
TROUBLESHOOTING
Symptom: Treadbelt feels like it’s slipping or grabbing when walked on.
Possible Cause: Loose drive belt or treadbelt. Adjust as per manual. Remember to adjust only till slipping stops. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN
Possible Cause: Worn treadbelt and/or deck. If treadbelt or deck is worn it will cause excessive friction and the user will feel like belt is slipping or grabbing.
1. Reach hand under front of treadbelt and see if deck feels rough, grooved, or if you see bare wood. These are signs the belt needs to replaced and the deck needs to be reversed or replaced if it has already been reversed.
2. Compare the outer edge of the treadbelt to the middle of the treadbelt. The outer edge wears less since the user walks near the center of the belt. You will be able to see the cross weave of fabric on a good treadbelt. This cross weave design traps air inside tiny pockets. The treadbelt glides on this trapped air. When a belt wears, the cross weave becomes flat and smooth. This is not good because there are no more pockets to catch the air. If the center of the treadbelt is smooth (glazed) and exhibits black streaks it’s time to replace.
3. If amp draw is high (8 amps or more on home) it is advisable to check belt and deck for wear. Tip: If Red Current Lamp is lit then Amp Draw is high. TREADBELTS AND DECK SURFACE SHOULD ALWAYS BE REPLACED TOGETHER IF EITHER IS WORN OUT.
Symptom: Treadmill slows down when user steps onto treadbelt.
Possible Cause: Worn out treadbelt or deck. See above.
Possible Cause: Worn or defective motor brushes and/or scorched commutator on drive motor.
Dress out commutator and replace brushes.
Possible Cause: Demagnetized stator magnets on drive motor.
Make sure that treadmill is unplugged! Disconnect drive motor from lower circuit board. Hold the two motor wires, Black A+ and White A-, together and rotate the motor flywheel by hand. Get a good feel for the rotational friction of the drive motor. Then disconnect the two motor wires and rotate the drive motor by hand. If the drive motor begins to spin much easier, then your motor is not the problem. If you notice no difference, then replace the drive motor. NOTE: A good drive motor will spin freely with little friction when disconnected from the lower circuit board. If the two motor wires are connected together, the drive motor will become much harder to rotate. Also see:
Component Testing –Drive Motor
Symptom: Treadbelt feels like it’s slipping or grabbing when walked on.
Possible Cause: Loose drive belt or treadbelt. Adjust as per manual. Remember to adjust only till slipping stops. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN
Possible Cause: Worn treadbelt and/or deck. If treadbelt or deck is worn it will cause excessive friction and the user will feel like belt is slipping or grabbing.
1. Reach hand under front of treadbelt and see if deck feels rough, grooved, or if you see bare wood. These are signs the belt needs to replaced and the deck needs to be reversed or replaced if it has already been reversed.
2. Compare the outer edge of the treadbelt to the middle of the treadbelt. The outer edge wears less since the user walks near the center of the belt. You will be able to see the cross weave of fabric on a good treadbelt. This cross weave design traps air inside tiny pockets. The treadbelt glides on this trapped air. When a belt wears, the cross weave becomes flat and smooth. This is not good because there are no more pockets to catch the air. If the center of the treadbelt is smooth (glazed) and exhibits black streaks it’s time to replace.
3. If amp draw is high (8 amps or more on home) it is advisable to check belt and deck for wear. Tip: If Red Current Lamp is lit then Amp Draw is high. TREADBELTS AND DECK SURFACE SHOULD ALWAYS BE REPLACED TOGETHER IF EITHER IS WORN OUT.
Symptom: Treadmill slows down when user steps onto treadbelt.
Possible Cause: Worn out treadbelt or deck. See above.
Possible Cause: Worn or defective motor brushes and/or scorched commutator on drive motor.
Dress out commutator and replace brushes.
Possible Cause: Demagnetized stator magnets on drive motor.
Make sure that treadmill is unplugged! Disconnect drive motor from lower circuit board. Hold the two motor wires, Black A+ and White A-, together and rotate the motor flywheel by hand. Get a good feel for the rotational friction of the drive motor. Then disconnect the two motor wires and rotate the drive motor by hand. If the drive motor begins to spin much easier, then your motor is not the problem. If you notice no difference, then replace the drive motor. NOTE: A good drive motor will spin freely with little friction when disconnected from the lower circuit board. If the two motor wires are connected together, the drive motor will become much harder to rotate. Also see:
Component Testing –Drive Motor
Symptom: Treadbelt is moving diagonally.
If a belt is moving diagonally on the treadmill it can be corrected with the following steps:
1. Loosen the take up roller (both sides)
2. Take off the motor cover.
3. Loosen the drive roller adjustment bolt on the right side (opposite the sheave pulley).
4. Using a large screw driver or pry bar move the drive roller forward if the belt is angled right to left or backward if its angled left to right.
5. Tighten drive roller until star washer bites into aluminum frame, start treadmill, and adjust tracking. If belt is straight then put on motor cover. If belt is still not straight, go to #6.
6. If there is improvement and there is still room to move drive roller adjustment bolt, continue to adjust until fixed.
7. If there is no more adjustment on right side adjustment bolt, go to left side adjustment bolt ( make sure to loosen the drive belt via the drive belt tension adjustment bolt and re-tension when done).
Symptom: Treadmill speed is erratic and/or surges.
Possible Cause: Defective drive motor
See Component Testing -drive motor:
Possible Cause: Loose drive belt or treadbelt.
Check for proper drive belt and treadbelt tension. If one of these belts are not tight enough, they will slip and create a treadbelt skip or surge. This will usually be more apparent with heavier users.
Possible Cause: High drive motor current due to excessive treadbelt friction.
Check for treadbelt and tread deck for wear. Check that Red Lamp marked Current is not on.
Possible Cause: Worn or defective motor brushes and /or commutator.
Check Motor brushes move freely in holder. Brushes should be at least ¼ inch long, approximately the same length, and free of cracks, splits, and fraying.
Possible Cause: Line voltage surging.
Use voltmeter, monitor line voltage supply. Make sure customer has the treadmill plugged into a circuit that meets our electrical requirements. (Home & LTD Treadmills = 120V / 20 amp dedicated circuit), (Club Treadmills = 220V / 15 amp dedicated circuit)
NO extension cord should exceed 6 feet in length and must be 12Awg, same as linecord.
Possible Cause: (PWM boards ONLY Home Mills) IR potentiometer out of adjustment.
Adjust the IR “pot” on the lower motor control board until the surge subsides.
If a belt is moving diagonally on the treadmill it can be corrected with the following steps:
1. Loosen the take up roller (both sides)
2. Take off the motor cover.
3. Loosen the drive roller adjustment bolt on the right side (opposite the sheave pulley).
4. Using a large screw driver or pry bar move the drive roller forward if the belt is angled right to left or backward if its angled left to right.
5. Tighten drive roller until star washer bites into aluminum frame, start treadmill, and adjust tracking. If belt is straight then put on motor cover. If belt is still not straight, go to #6.
6. If there is improvement and there is still room to move drive roller adjustment bolt, continue to adjust until fixed.
7. If there is no more adjustment on right side adjustment bolt, go to left side adjustment bolt ( make sure to loosen the drive belt via the drive belt tension adjustment bolt and re-tension when done).
Symptom: Treadmill speed is erratic and/or surges.
Possible Cause: Defective drive motor
See Component Testing -drive motor:
Possible Cause: Loose drive belt or treadbelt.
Check for proper drive belt and treadbelt tension. If one of these belts are not tight enough, they will slip and create a treadbelt skip or surge. This will usually be more apparent with heavier users.
Possible Cause: High drive motor current due to excessive treadbelt friction.
Check for treadbelt and tread deck for wear. Check that Red Lamp marked Current is not on.
Possible Cause: Worn or defective motor brushes and /or commutator.
Check Motor brushes move freely in holder. Brushes should be at least ¼ inch long, approximately the same length, and free of cracks, splits, and fraying.
Possible Cause: Line voltage surging.
Use voltmeter, monitor line voltage supply. Make sure customer has the treadmill plugged into a circuit that meets our electrical requirements. (Home & LTD Treadmills = 120V / 20 amp dedicated circuit), (Club Treadmills = 220V / 15 amp dedicated circuit)
NO extension cord should exceed 6 feet in length and must be 12Awg, same as linecord.
Possible Cause: (PWM boards ONLY Home Mills) IR potentiometer out of adjustment.
Adjust the IR “pot” on the lower motor control board until the surge subsides.
SPEED CALIBRATION: L-SERIES PWM TREADMILLS
1. Enter the O.L.S. Mode (Open Loop Speed) by pressing “MENU” and
“START” simultaneously for Executive Trainers and “FAST” and “START” for all
other models.
2. Adjust the max speed first. Bring the set speed to 12mph. Let actual speed
stabilize.
3. Adjust the MAX potentiometer on the PWM motor control board accordingly. CW = increase speed / CCW = decrease speed.
The actual speed will be displayed in the center display window.
4. Decrease set speed to 2.0mph. Let actual speed stabilize. Adjust the MIN pot accordingly. (1.9 to 2.1mph is acceptable)
5. Before turning treadmill off, check the MAX speed one more time for accuracy. If speed calibration does not fix problem suspect relay board failure.
3. Adjust the MAX potentiometer on the PWM motor control board accordingly. CW = increase speed / CCW = decrease speed.
The actual speed will be displayed in the center display window.
4. Decrease set speed to 2.0mph. Let actual speed stabilize. Adjust the MIN pot accordingly. (1.9 to 2.1mph is acceptable)
5. Before turning treadmill off, check the MAX speed one more time for accuracy. If speed calibration does not fix problem suspect relay board failure.
