LG TCON board – Troubleshooting - LC370W01-A5K1 (6870C-0024A)- LC370WX1 - LC320W01 (6870C-0060F)- LC370WX1-SLA1 (6870C-0088D) - LC370WX4-SLA1 (6870C-0158A)- LC420W02-B6 (6870C-0046B)

LG TCON board - LC370W01-A5K1 (6870C-0024A)- LC370WX1 - LC320W01 (6870C-0060F)- LC370WX1-SLA1 (6870C-0088D) - LC370WX4-SLA1 (6870C-0158A)- LC420W02-B6 (6870C-0046B)

A) T-con Board: LC370W01-A5K1 (6870C-0024A)
LCD Panel Model: 37 inches
Note: Vcc input= 12V1)

US1= TPS65161 is a power management IC.

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display.
2) U1: This IC is a common fault for this T-con.

When it is fails it will cause the TV No Display.
3) UC1=KE5M3U2109.

If this IC failed it will cause the TV No Display or White Screen problem.
4) U3= BUF11702.

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display or Abnormal Display Color problem.

B) T-con Board: LC370WX1 / LC320W01 (6870C-0060F)

LCD Panel Model: 37 inches
Note: Vcc input= 12V

1) U6 is a SDRAM memory IC.

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display or Display Distortion problem.
2) U3 is an EEPROM IC.

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display or White Screen problem.
3) UC1= TL22710D.

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display, White Screen or Rainbow Display on the Screen.
4) U4= TPS65160 is a power management IC.

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display.

C) T-con Board: LC370WX1-SLA1 (6870C-0088D)

LCD Panel Model: 37 inches
Note: Vcc input= 12V

1) U5 is a SDRAM memory IC.

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display or Display Distortion Problem.
2) UL1= R8A01028FP.

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display.
3) U3:

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display.
4) U9= TPS65161 power management IC (DC-DC circuit IC).

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display.

D) T-con Board: LC370WX4-SLA1 (6870C-0158A)

LCD Panel Model: 37 inches
Note: Vcc input= 12V

1) U11 is a SDRAM memory IC.

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display or Display Distortion problem.
2) UL1= R8A01028AFP.

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display or Display Distortion problem.
3) U3 is an EEPROM memory IC.

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display or White Screen problem.
4) US1= TPS65161 is a power management IC.

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display.

E) T-con Board: LC420W02-B6 (6870C-0046B)

LCD Panel Model: 42 inches
Note: Vcc input= 12V

1) U6= LM2716HT is a power management IC.

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display.
2) U10 is a SDRAM memory IC.

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display or Display Distortion problem.
3) UC1= R8A00011FT.

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display, White Screen or Rainbow Display problem.
4) U9= EL5329IRZ.

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display or Abnormal Display Color on the screen.

Troubleshooting – LG TCON Boards - LC420WUN-SAA1 (6870C-4200C) - LC420WX5-SLA1 (6870C-0113A) - LC420WX7 (6870C-0150B) - LC470WU4-SLA1 (6870C-0120C) - LC520WU1-SLA1 (6870C-0152A)

LG -LC420WUN-SAA1 (6870C-4200C) - LC420WX5-SLA1 (6870C-0113A) - LC420WX7 (6870C-0150B) - LC470WU4-SLA1 (6870C-0120C) - LC520WU1-SLA1 (6870C-0152A)
A) LC420WUN-SAA1 (6870C-4200C)
LCD Panel Model: 42 inches HD Panel
Vcc input= 12V
1) PGAMMA: BUF22821.
If this IC failed, it will cause No Display or Missing Colors.
2) U35= CY25560.
If this IC failed, it will cause No Display.
3) UC1= TL2412MC.
If this IC failed, it will cause  No Display or Display Distortion problem.
4) U5= TPS65162 power management IC.
If this IC failed, it will cause No Display.
B) LC420WX5-SLA1 (6870C-0113A)
LCD Panel Model: 42 inches Panel
Vcc input= 12V
1) U7= TPS65161 is a power management IC.
 If this IC failed, it will cause No Display.
2) U5 is a SDRAM memory IC.
If this IC failed, it will cause No Display or Display Distortion problem.
3) UC1= R8A0102SFP.
If this IC failed, it will cause No Display or Rainbow Display problem.
4) U4 is an EEPROM IC.
If this IC failed, it will cause No Display or White Screen problem.
C) LC420WX7 (6870C-0150B)
LCD Panel Model: 42 inches Panel
Vcc input=12V
1) U7= TPS65162 is a power management IC.
If this IC failed, it will cause No Display.
2) U5 is a SDRAM memory IC.
If this IC failed, it will cause No Display or White Screen problem.
3) UC1= R8A01028AFP.
If this IC failed, it will cause No Display, White Screen or Rainbow Display problem.
D) LC470WU4-SLA1 (6870C-0120C)
LCD Panel Model: 47 inches Panel
Vcc input= 12V
1) U401 SDRAM.
If this IC failed, it will cause No Display or Display Distortion problem.
2) UC101= R8A00014BF.
If this IC failed, it will cause No Display or White Screen problem.
3) U101 EERPOM memory IC.
If this IC failed, it will cause No Display.
4) U202= TPS65161 power management IC.
If this IC failed, it will cause No Display.
E) LC520WU1-SLA1 (6870C-0152A)
LCD Panel Model: 52 inches Panel
Vcc input= 12V
1) PWM1= TPS65161 power management IC (DC-DC circuit IC).
If this IC failed, it will cause No Display.
2) UC8= EP2C35F484C7N.
If this IC failed, it will cause  No Displayor Display Distortion problem.
3) OSC1= 50MHz crystal.
If this component failed, it will cause No Display or Rainbow Display on the screen.
4) SDRAM1 is a SDRAM memory IC.
If this IC failed, it will cause  No Display or Rainbow Display problem.

Apple iMac Intel 27 – How to disassemble - Apple iMac Intel 27 – How to replace the Speakers – How to Replace the Airport Bluetooth card

Apple iMac Intel 27

DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE 

Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the iMac Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear case.
The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert no more than 3/8" into the display. You risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage.

Use the tool like a pizza cutter - roll it along through the gap, and it will cut the foam adhesive through the center.

Be sure to always push with the handle behind the cutting wheel. If you pull, the wheel might get pulled out of the handle.
Run the tool up along the left side of the display.

Continue wheeling the tool up around the top left corner.

Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display.

Continue along the top of the display.
You may want to run the tool back and forth through what you've already cut a few times, to ensure you get as much of the adhesive separated as possible.

Push the tool around the top right corner of the display.

Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display.

Finish pushing the opening tool to the bottom of the right side of the display.

At this point, you'll want to run the tool back around the entire display, to ensure you cut as much adhesive as possible.

While the opening tool did the lion's share of the work, the display will still be slightly adhered to the case. A plastic card will be necessary to free up the last of this adhesive.
Set the iMac face-up on a table.
Starting from the top right corner of the iMac, insert a plastic card between the display and frame.
Be careful not to insert it more than 3/8", or you may damage internal components.

Gently twist the plastic card to open the space between the display and frame.

Move slowly and be careful not to stress the display glass too much - you only need to make a gap of about 1/4".

Be sure to stop cutting before the iSight camera in this step, or you may damage it.

Slide the card toward the center of the display, to cut any remaining adhesive.

Put the card into the corner again and let it stay there to keep the adhesive from resettling.

Insert a second card into the gap between the display and frame in the top left corner.

Gently twist the card, slightly increasing the space between the display and frame.

As with the other side, move slowly to allow the adhesive to break, and be careful not to over stress the display glass.

Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera.

Insert the card back into the top left corner.

Only lift the display a few inches - it is still attached to the iMac by data and power cables.

With the cards inserted as shown near the corners, gently twist the cards to increase the gap between display and case.
If there are any sections that seem to stick and won't separate, stop twisting and use one of the cards to cut the adhesive in the problem area.
Begin to lift the top of the display up from the frame.

While holding the display up with one hand, use the other to unplug the display power cable.

Lift the display up enough to have easy access to the connections, but not so much that you stretch the cables and stress their connections (about 8").

Flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.

Disconnect the display data cable.
This is a delicate connection that can easily be broken. Be sure to pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket, toward the top of the iMac.

Lift the display up to a near-vertical position.

At this point there is still a strip of adhesive along the bottom of the display, that will hold the display to the frame like a hinge. You can loosen this adhesive by working the display up and down a few times.

If necessary, a plastic card can be used to cut any remaining sections of the bottom adhesive strip.

Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply (boxed in red).

Be very careful handling the display - it's big, heavy, and made of glass.

Lift the display up from the frame and remove it from the iMac.
It may be necessary to slowly lift from one side, to peel against the remaining adhesive.

With the hinge free to move, the iMac will be unbalanced and hard to work on. Repairs can be completed with the iMac laying down, but are faster and easier with an iMac service wedge.
Remove two 10.0 mm T10 screws.

SPEAKERS REMOVAL 

Gently rock the right speaker slightly to the right, to allow access to its cable's connection on the logic board.

Use a spudger to loosen the right speaker cable's connector from its socket on the logic board.

Pull the connector to the right to remove it from its socket.

Lift the speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac.

AirPort/Bluetooth Card

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect each of the four antenna connectors from the AirPort/Bluetooth card.
Note the original positions for each connector when reconnecting the cables—from left to right on the card, the antennas are connected in the following order:
Leftmost
Top
Upper right
Lower right

Remove two 3.7 mm T5 screws securing the AirPort/Bluetooth card to the logic board.

To avoid damaging its socket, do not push the end of the AirPort/Bluetooth Card away from the logic board excessively.

Push the end of the AirPort/Bluetooth Card slightly toward the rear case and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board.
When reinstalling the card, be sure it is properly seated before reinstalling its retaining screw.

Lenovo Yoga Book – How to check the AC adapter – How to check the Battery – How to replace the battery – How to disassemble the keyboard

Lenovo Yoga Book
Checking the Tab AC Charger
To check the IdeaTab AC Charger, do the following:
1. Disconnect the micro‐USB cable from the tablet.
2. Measure the output voltage across the connector marked B of the micro‐USB cable. Refer to the following figure:
Note: The output voltage across pin 3 of the micro‐B connector might be different from the one you are servicing.
3. If the voltage is not correct, replace the micro‐USB cable.
4. If the voltage is acceptable, replace the main board.
Checking the internal battery status
To check the battery status of the tablet, do either of the following:
Approximate information about the battery status
Get the approximate status of the battery at any time by checking the battery status icon on the system bar in the upper‐right corner of the screen. The shorter the green bar is, the less the battery power remains.
Accurate information about the battery status
To get the accurate information about the battery status of the tablet, do the following
1.Open the Android Settings screen.
To open the Android Settings screen, do either of the following:
# From the main Home screen, touch the Android Settings icon on Lenovo Launch Zone. The Android Settings screen is displayed.
# Touch the application icon from the action bar and then touch Settings.
The Android Settings screen is displayed.
2.Touch About Tablet on the Android Settings screen.
3.Touch Status to view the accurate percentage of the remaining battery power. You also can touch Battery use to check what applications are consuming battery power.
KeyBoard DisassemblingHeat the 5mm adhesive surface to 60‐70°C all the way around for about ten minutes.
Place suction cups in the position shown in the photo and slowly lift up the secondary display TP. Once there is a gap, insert the piece for disassembly to 5mm. Do this on all four sides to open it up, and then lift up the secondary display.
Remove the black Mylar. Use tweezers to disconnect the KeyBoard assembly and the main board connected to the FPC interface. Gently pull the FPC, so the main board and the KeyBoard assembly are completely separated.
Note:
1. The power key’s FPC can be easily broken in disassembly.
2. When open, the right side of the motor and the EMR are bonded together. Be careful not to break the motor’s lead wire.
3. The KeyBoard assembly’s FPC connector is located on the top left side. Remember that slow disassembly is required so as not to damage the FPC.
How to replace the Battery
Use a screwdriver to remove the black screws from the battery’s silver sheeting, then remove the sheeting.
Use tweezers to open the interface between the battery FPC and the main board.
Use a blade to pry open the black cover on either side of the battery, and remove the covers.
After the covers are completely separated, you will see four pieces of blue adhesive. Pull out the four pieces of adhesive, and gently remove the battery.

LG G Stylo – Disassembling procedure – How to replace the mother board – How to replace the front glass

LG G Stylo

DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE 

Make sure that you power off the phone before beginning.
Remove the back cover by placing the plastic opening tool on the bottom left side of the device and gently prying up.
There is a small slit that fits the plastic opening tool perfectly on the left side.

Insert the plastic opening tool into the indent at the bottom of the battery and lift up. Fully remove the battery with your fingers.

Carefully use the Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the eleven 3.9mm visible screws found on the back. The screws to be removed are marked with the given indicators.

When you have finished removing all of the screws, place the plastic opening tool in the groove at the bottom left corner of the motherboard cover and lift up.

This part could be more difficult if you have never removed the motherboard cover. If difficulty arises, pry the plastic opening tool into each groove along the edge of the motherboard cover until it releases.
Once a clip is released, you can detach the motherboard cover with your fingers and set aside.

Carefully place the plastic opening tool under the ribbons where the cables are connecting and lift up to detach the cables.

Keep in mind to be careful with the ribbons, because they are small components and important for the device's functionality.
The third photo attached depicts what the ribbons look like when they are successfully detached.

Fully remove the motherboard by prying upward with the plastic opening tool.

This step will be quite simple if all the ribbons have been detached correctly.

Use the plastic opening tool to peel off the sticker.

Gently use the plastic opening tool to set the tab free. This tab is used to hold the screen in place.

The screen is held with adhesive, so use the iOpener to apply heat to the device.

Once you applied the Opener on the device, use the plastic opening tool or opening pick to pry the screen free.
When working with electronics, it's important to use ESD-safe tools to avoid accidental damage to the device. The regular black nylon spudger or a plastic opening tool should be used whenever possible. Also, beware of sharp edges on a broken screen. Once the broken screen has been set free, put in the screen replacement.

Tech Troubleshooting – Samsung TCON board - 320WTLF3C2LV0.3 – 400W2C4LTV0.1 - 400W2C4LV1.5 - 460WSC4LV0.1 - 460WTC4LV5.0 - 4046HDCP2LV0.6

A) 320WTLF3C2LV0.3
32 inches Panel
Note: Vcc input= 5V
1) IC12= 7585A power management IC.

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display.
2) IC18= EEPROM memory IC.

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display or White Screen problem.
3) U1= TFP7517PNP.

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display or Display Abnormal problem.
4) U1= EM638325TS-7G SDRAM memory IC.

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display or Display Distortion problem.

B) 400W2C4LTV0.1

40 inches Panel
Note: Vcc input= 5V
1) OP3 = 54200CRZ

If this IC failed, one of the half (left or right side) display will No Display or Display Abnormal.
2) ICG1= 5327CRZ.

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display.
3) ICD3= 2700NT power management IC.

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display.
4) ICt1= LRX4222 IC.

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display or Display Distortion problem.
5) ICD1 is a SDRAM memory IC.

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display or Display Distortion problem.

C) 400W2C4LV1.5

40 inches Panel
Note: Vcc input= 5V
1) IC320= EL7585AIL power management IC.

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display.
2) ICT1= LRX4222T3.

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display or Full Screen of Vertical Lines/Bars.
3) ICD1 is a SDRAM memory IC.

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display or Display Distortion problem.
4) IC322= 24006IRZ.

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display

D) 460WSC4LV0.1

46 inches Panel
Note: Vcc input= 5V
1) IC320= EL7585AIT power management IC.

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display.
2) ICT3= LRX4222T3.

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display or Full Screen of Vertical Lines/Bars.
3) IC322= EL24006IRZ.

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display or Full Screen of Vertical Lines/Bars.
4) ICD1 is a SDRAM memory IC.

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display or Display Distortion problem.

E) 460WTC4LV5.0
46 inches Panel
Note: Vcc input= 5V
1) ICD1= EL7585AIL power management IC.

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display.
2) ICT1= LRX4222T3.

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display or Display Distortion problem.
3) U2= K4D263238I SDRAM memory IC.

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display or White Screen.
4) ICG1= MAX9590.

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display or Full Screen of Colorful Vertical Lines/Bars.

F) 4046HDCP2LV0.6

46 inches Panel
Note: Vcc input= 12V
1) ICD1= ISL97650ARIZ is a power management IC.

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display.
2) ICT1= LMX4122T0.

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display, Display Distortion or Abnormal Display problem.
3) ICM1 is a SDRAM memory IC.

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display or Display Distortion problem.
4) ICG1= MAX9590 IC.

If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display or Full Screen of Vertical Lines/Bars.

Apple iMac Intel 20 – Disassembling – How to replace the Power supply

Loosen the single Phillips screw in the center of the access door.
This screw is captive in the access door.
Remove the access door from your iMac.

The glass panel is fixed onto the front bezel with fourteen magnets around its perimeter.
Stick two suction cups to opposing corners of the glass panel.
To attach the suction cups we sell, first position the suction cup with the movable handle parallel to the face of the glass panel. While lightly holding the suction cup against the glass, raise the movable handle until it is parallel with the other handle.
If your suction cups refuse to stick, try cleaning both the glass panel and the suction cup with a mild solvent such as Windex.

Gently pull the glass panel straight up off the iMac.

The glass panel has several positioning pins around its perimeter.
To avoid shearing these pins off the glass panel, be sure to only pull straight up during removal.
Be meticulous about cleaning the
LCD and the inside face of the glass panel before reinstallation, as any fingerprints or dust trapped inside will be annoyingly visible when the display is on. Placing the glass flat, inside face down, on a fresh aluminum-foil surface is a good way to keep it clean.

Remove the following 12 screws securing the front bezel to the rear case:

Eight 13 mm T8 Torx.
Four 25 mm T8 Torx.

Disconnect the microphone cable connector, removing tape as necessary.

For the front bezel to sit properly, be sure to tuck the microphone cable and connector into the void next to the camera board.

Pull the LCD temperature sensor connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

If necessary, de-route the LCD temperature sensor cable from behind the logic board.
When you remove the LCD, check the routing of the LCD temperature display cable. On reinstalling the display, be sure this cable does not block one of the bottom screws for the front bezel.

Remove the two 5.3 mm T6 Torx screws securing the data display cable to the logic board.

Use the attached black tab to pull the data display cable connector away from the logic board.

Remove the eight 12 mm T8 Torx screws securing the display panel to the rear case.
Lift the display panel from its left edge and rotate it toward the right edge of the iMac.

With the display panel still lifted, disconnect the four inverter cables.

During reinstallation, place the four inverter cable connectors in voids between components attached to the rear panel so the display panel will sit flush.
During reassembly, the order of the inverter cables is interchangeable within each socket.
If you are replacing a hard drive and have an extra set of hands, it is possible to reach in and remove the drive without disconnecting anything but the LCD temp and display connector in the previous step with the LCD in its propped position.

The next few steps bring your hands close to the exposed face of the power supply. Do not touch the face of the power supply to avoid a high voltage shock from the many large capacitors attached to the board.

Remove four T10 Torx screws securing the power supply to the rear case.
Two fine-thread 7 mm T10 Torx
Two coarse-thread 7 mm T10 Torx

Rotate the top edge of the power supply slightly away from the rear case.

The single-wire connector near the upper left corner of the power supply is small and held very tightly in its socket, making it inherently difficult to remove. Be sure to pull only on the connector during removal, as pulling the cable will surely cause it to break.
The single wire shown in the first photo is for the power supply temperature sensor. If you have power supply temperature issues after installation, check this connection first.
Grab the connector between the nails on your thumb and index fingers and pull it toward the top of your iMac, disconnecting it from the power supply.

Rotate your power supply toward the optical drive.

Disconnect the DC power cable by simultaneously depressing its lock mechanism and pulling the connector away from its socket.
It may help to wiggle the connector while pulling it away from its socket.

Disconnect the AC-in cable by simultaneously squeezing the cable lock and pulling the connector away from its socket.

Apple iPad Pro 12.9 – Specification - Disassembling procedure – Battery – Components

SPECIFICATION 

Apple iPad Pro 12.9 - Specification - Disassembling procedure - Components - Tablets repair and service.

1. Fully laminated, 12.9" Multi-Touch LCD with a 2,732 × 2,048 resolution at 264 ppi and antireflective coating
3rd generation 64-bit A9X chip paired with M9 motion coprocessor Self-balancing, four-speaker audio

2. 8-megapixel 1080p rear-facing iSight camera + 1.2-megapixel 720p front-facing FaceTime HD camera
3. 802.11a/​b/​g/​n/​ac MIMO Wi-Fi + Bluetooth 4.2
4. Touch ID fingerprint sensor + 3- axis gyro + accelerometer + barometer + ambient light sensor
5. 32 GB or 128 GB on-board storage

Peeking along the edge of the iPad, we spot a new accessory port - Apple's Smart Connector - making its debut appearance.
The Smart Connector supports Apple's own Smart Keyboard as well as third-party accessories that transfer power and data, like keyboards and docking stations.
On the bottom edge, two of the four speakers in the highly touted speaker array live on either side of a now-familiar Lightning Connector.

After a little heat-to-heat, with an opening picks and heavy duty suction cup to open the conversation.

DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE
The Pro's display is packing the same adhesive as its smaller counterparts - it's tough and there's way too much - but it's still no match for our seasoned teardown hands.
With the adhesive finally out of the way, we get our first glimpse of the Pro's interior.

Now to remove that display

With the logic board situated in the center of the iPad, the display cables connect in the very middle of the device, so you can't even lay the display down while we work.
Instead, you first have to support the weight of the display while removing the screws that secure the display cable bracket.On the back of the display, you will find the following.

2 × Broadcom BCM15900B0
NXP Semiconductors 8416A1 Touch ID Sensor
Parade Technologies DP695 Timing Controller
Apple says this is an iteration of the DP665 LCD timing controller found in the iMac Retina
5K, modified to support the display's variable refresh rate.
Texas Instruments TPS65144 (Likely an iteration of the TPS65143A LCD Bias found in the Air 2)

A logic board relocation isn't the only easily-recognized layout difference between the iPad Pro and previous iPads. While the iPad Air 2's interior real estate was dominated by a proportionately  massive battery, the iPad Pro dedicates a significant amount of room to speaker enclosures.

It appears that the Pro's self-balancing, four-speaker audio comes at the cost of battery capacity. Based on our measurements, the speaker enclosures occupy about half as much space as the battery.
That's space that could have potentially been used for an extra 50% battery capacity. Its sure Apple was very careful setting the balance between battery capacity, weight, and sound quality.

Next,  lend a hand to the FaceTime HD (left) and iSight cameras, which are trapped behind a bracket.While just about everything in this tablet has been billed as bigger and better than previous  devices, these cameras seem to be the same as those found in the iPad Air 2.

For those of you keeping score: the rear-facing camera captures the same 8 MP images and 1080p video at 30 fps, while the front-facing selfie cam shoots identical 1.2 MP images and 720p video.

Here's a first in iPad history: we have to remove the logic board's EMI shielding to remove the logic board itself.

This shielding not only protects the logic board from interference, but also hides cable connectors and secures the logic board to the rear case.

As you continue to mine deeper into this iPad Pro, the next Balrog component you find is the headphone jack.

Just like the 3.5 mm jack in the iPad Air 2, the ribbon cable on this headphone jack harbors one of the Pro's two front-facing ambient light sensors.

Finally, you get to (one of) the highly anticipated self-balancing speaker drivers. Yes, speaker drivers. The whole speaker consists of the driver and its capped resonance chamber. 

Although these speakers share a common design, their function changes depending on the tablet's orientation. Whether in portrait or landscape mode, the Pro always sends higher frequencies to the topmost speakers to produce a more balanced sound.

The speakers are nice, but what makes them really sing are the fancy back volume chambers, machined directly into the unibody enclosure.

Apple claims that this new design provides up to three times more output than previous iPad models.
After removing the carbon fiber caps, you will find the enclosures are filled with foam. On Your way to the logic board, you stop to smell the flowers antennas.

Just like the iPad Air 2, the Pro's two antennas use MIMO technology to provide 802.11ac Wi-Fi speeds of up to 866 Mbps, and LTE speeds of up to 150 Mbps

There are just a few things left standing between us and the logic board.

A bit of deft spudgering frees the remaining speaker connectors, and a flex cable that appears to run beneath the left battery cell to drive the Smart Connector contacts.
At long last we've extracted the logic board - and its (sadly) soldered on Lightning connector

The logic board contains the following 

1. Apple APL1021 A9X 64-bit Processor

2.  SK Hynix H9HCNNNBTUMLNR-NLH 16 Gb (2 GB) LPDDR4 RAM (2 GB × 2 = 4 GB total)
3. Toshiba THGBX5G8D4KLDXG 32 GB NAND Flash
4. InvenSense MP67B 6-axis Gyroscope and Accelerometer Combo
5. NXP 65V10 NFC Controller (also found in the iPhone 6/6 Plus, as well as Nexus 5X and 6P marked NXP 54802)
6. NXP Semiconductors LPC11U37 ARM Cortex-M0 Microcontroller
7. Apple (Cirrus Logic) 338S1213 Audio Codec.

Even more chips on the logic board:

Fresco Logic FL1100SX 2-port USB 3.0 Host Controller
Universal Scientific Industrial 339S00045 Wi-Fi Module
NXP 1610A3 (also found in  iPhone 6s/6s Plus, likely an iteration of the 1610A1 found in the iPad Mini 4)
Dialog Semiconductor 343S00025-A1
Dialog Semiconductor 343S00052-A1
Maxim Integrated MAX98721CEWV (likely an iteration of the MAX98721BEWV found in the iPad Air 2)
Fairchild Semiconductor FDMC 6683 power management chipThese new pull tabs are even cooler than their iPhone counterparts; there's no need to worry about tweezer grip or stubby fingers - these tabs have a handy spudger hole.

You will  have so much fun pulling out these adhesive tabs that you thought you would include a video.

And unlike on iPhones where you only get two or three tabs to tug, the iPad Pro comes with eight.

Thanks to those pull tabs, the battery is freed with ease.

The iPad Pro's 3.77 V battery weighs in at an impressive 10307 mAh.
This prodigious, 38.8 Wh power source offers a 40 percent increase over the 27.62 Wh battery in the iPad Air 2, but just barely edges out the 38.2 Wh battery we found in the Surface Pro 4.The last component You will  try to remove on the road to teardown glory is the Smart Connector port cable.

Xiaomi Redmi 2 – Disassembling procedure – How to replace the Mother board

Use the flat end of the spudger to remove the back panel from the mid-frame and front body.

Insert your finger into the curved opening of the mid-frame.

Lift the battery and remove.

Remove the SIM and/or memory cards if present.

Remove twelve 3.4 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the mid-frame to the front body.

Slide the spudger between the mid frame and front body, gradually prying the two bodies apart as you slide the spudger around the perimeter of the phone.

Remove the 3.4 mm Phillips #000 screw that holds the motherboard to the front body.

Keep this screw separate from the initial twelve.

Using one prong of the tweezers, pry back the brown clip located on top of the LCD ribbon connector.

Using one prong of the tweezers, pry the ribbon clip away from the motherboard.

Lift and hinge the motherboard with your fingers.

Using one prong of the tweezers, lift and pry back the metal clip positioned over the front proximity sensor ribbon connector.

Lift the motherboard out of the front cover and set aside.

Remove the 2.9 mm Phillips #000 screw that holds the PCB circuit board to the screen assembly.

Using the tweezers, lift the antenna connector from the PCB circuit board.

Do not remove the PCB circuit board at this time.

Using the nylon or metal spudger, gently pry back the top of the PCB circuit board from the screen assembly.

Using the nylon or metal spudger, pry back the silver clip covering the ribbon connector.

Carefully lift the PCB circuit board from the screen assembly and set aside. The screen assembly is pictured to the left of the circuit board and is now ready for repair or replacement.

Apple iPhone 5 - How to replace the Power Button

Before disassembling your iPhone, be sure it is powered off.
Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning connector.
Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.
Be sure the cup is completely on the screen to get a tight seal.
If you're opening an iPhone with cracked glass, neatly lay a couple strips of packing tape across the  front and squeeze out as many bubbles as you can. This will give the suction cup a surface to grab, and minimize the spread of broken glass.
Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly.
While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.
Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.
With a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the display assembly, while you pull up with the suction cup.
There are several clips attaching the front panel assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use a combination of the suction cup and plastic opening tool to free the front panel assembly.
Continue to pry up around the sides of the front panel assembly, detaching the clips along the left and right side.
Do not try to completely remove the front panel assembly from the rear case, as there are several ribbon cables still attached at the top of the iPhone.
Once the clips have been released on the bottom and sides of the front panel assembly, pull the bottom of the assembly away from the rear case.
Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.
Remove the following two screws securing the metal battery connector bracket to the logic board:
One 1.8 mm Phillips screw
One 1.6 mm Phillips screw
Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.
Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.
Remove the following screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:
Two 1.2 mm Phillips screws
One 1.6 mm Phillips screw
This screw tends to not be attracted to a magnetized screwdriver. Take care not to lose it when removing, and make sure it gets back into the right place - a magnetized screw may interfere with the compass.
Lift the display cable bracket toward the battery to unhook it, and remove it from the iPhone.
During reassembly, clip the left-hand hooks under the logic board and lower the bracket towards the outside of the phone.
Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the three front panel assembly cables:
Front-facing camera and sensor cable
LCD cable
Digitizer cable
When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop off the connector. This can cause white lines, or nothing at all to appear when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.
Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.
Use the exposed clear plastic pull tab to peel the battery off the adhesive securing it to the iPhone.
If you have trouble peeling the battery up, use an iOpener or hair dryer to heat the rear case of the iPhone and soften the adhesive.
The plastic tab is fragile and may break. If your tab breaks before the battery is freed, refer to the following steps.
Slightly warm up the back cover
This will soften the adhesive holding the battery, making it easier and safer to pry out of the case.
Use the plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery up, only at the outside edge of the phone.
Prying anywhere else, especially near the logic board, may result in damage to the logic board.
If the battery doesn't pry easily out of the case, reheat and reapply the iOpener and try again.
Pry gently and evenly to avoid deforming the battery. A bent battery can be a fire hazard.
Do not pry at the top portion of the battery, you risk severing the volume control cables.
Remove the battery.
During reassembly, make sure the battery is seated firmly against the rear case. This will prevent any damage to other components when reinstalling the front panel assembly. Perform a hard reset after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.
Use the tip of a spudger to pry the cellular data antenna cable connector up from its socket on the logic board, just above the speaker enclosure.
Remove the following two screws securing the top logic board bracket to the rear case:
One 1.5 mm Phillips screw
One 2.3 mm Phillips screw
Remove the bracket from the top of the logic board.
Be sure not to break off the tiny grounding tab that sticks up off of the bracket next to the rear facing camera.
On newer models, the bracket may be attached to the camera housing and will not come completely out.
Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the following three cables from the logic board:
Upper interconnect cable
Button assembly cable
Lower interconnect cable
Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws from the inner top of the rear case.
Remove the single 1.2 mm Phillips screw remaining in the mid-section logic board bracket.
Remove the mid-section bracket from the logic board.
Use a spudger to pry the Lightning connector cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Gently peel the cable back and out of the way of the logic board.
Remove the following screws securing the logic board to the rear case:
Two 2.3 mm Phillips screws
Two 2.7 mm standoff screws.
These screws have a Phillips bit pattern, but we found the best removal tool to be a 2.5 mm flathead driver.
One non-magnetic 2.7 mm standoff screw
Be sure to put this screw back in its original position at the top of the logic board. A magnetized screw may interfere with the digital compass.
Reassembly hint: when putting the standoffs back in, use the tip of a spudger like a screwdriver to get them started.
Rotate the logic board assembly toward the battery side of the rear case.
Do not attempt to completely remove the logic board assembly from the rear case, yet; there is still one cable connected to the underside of the logic board.
The flash surround is adhered to the flash unit and the rear case. If it stays on the rear case remove with tweezers and mount it back on the flash unit.
Note: when reassembling your device, be sure that the lower interconnect cable is not tucked  underneath the logic board.
Use the tip of a spudger to pry the Wi-Fi antenna cable connector up from its socket on the
underside of the logic board.
Remove the logic board assembly from the rear case. While your logic board is out of your phone, keep it on a grounded anti static mat to prevent any damage to the circuitry.
Use the tip of a spudger to remove the rubber bumper from below the power button.
Remove the following screws from the metal bracket between the rear facing flash and camera windows:
One 2.9 mm standoff screw
This screw has a Phillips bit pattern, but we found the best removal tool to use is a 2.5 mm flathead driver.
One 1.6 mm Phillips screw
One 1.9 mm Phillips screw
Remove the metal power button bracket.
Use the tip of a spudger to flip the metal bracket holding the power switch away from the top of the rear case.
Press the power button into the rear case from the outside of the phone with the tip of a spudger. Remove the power button.

Microsoft Surface Pro 3 – How remove and replace the camera

Use a heat gun to melt the glue. 
Holding the heat gun on a single spot for too long can crack the screen or melt parts of the device.
Use the plastic opening tool to separate the screen from the device.
Start in the top right corner of the device for best results.
Carefully insert opening picks between the screen and the device.
Continue to heat sections of the screen with the heat gun.
As you make your way around the screen with the heat gun, use the plastic opening tool and the opening picks to pry the screen loose.
The screen is extremely thin and very easy to break. Be careful working with broken glass.
Once you have placed Opening Picks around the entire screen, carefully pry the screen
loose with the plastic opening tool.
Lift the screen up carefully so that no wires are torn.
Remove the single 4 mm T5 Torx screw securing the display cable.
Lift the connector up from the device.
Grasp the orange cable connected to the silver connecter.
Carefully lift the orange cable up until the connecter pops off.
The screen will now be completely disconnected.
Remove the 4mm screw with the T3 Torx Screwdriver.
Remove the four 7mm screws with the T3 Torx Screwdriver.
Locate the black piece shown.
Remove this piece by gently lifting it up with the tweezers until it pops off.
Remove the two 4mm screws with the T5 Torx Screwdriver.
Remove the rear camera with the tweezers.

Bowflex Tread Climber 1000 - 3000 - 5000 – How to adjust the running belt – How to calibrate the treadmill – E1 Error code troubleshooting – Running belt slipping adjustment

Walking Belt Adjustment
The walking belts need to be adjusted if they are out of center enough to cause a rubbing or scraping sound. Adjustments can be made at the front roller of each treadle.
Belt Alignment
1. Visual Test – Stand beside the unit and set the speed at 1.5 mph. Stand in front of the unit to see the adjustment bolts on each end of each front roller .

2. If the belt tracks too far to the right, use 3/16” hex key to turn the right adjustment bolt  clockwise in full turn increments until the belt is aligned.

Note: The belt will always move away from the tension bolt being tightened.
NOTICE: Do not turn bolts counterclockwise to adjust belt alignment. Bolts are turned counterclockwise only to decrease belt tension.
3. If the belt tracks too far to the left, do the same thing on the left adjustment bolt for that roller.
4. If the belts are running at a diagonal, install the Rear Belt Guide Kit.

Belt Tension

Check the walking belt tension only when the machine is unplugged. From the belt’s midpoint, a correctly tensioned belt should only have 1” (2.5 cm) of give. To check, pull the belt upward at its midpoint and measure the distance to the deck. If the distance is more than 1” (2.5 cm), the belt is loose. To tighten, turn both bolts clockwise one half turn and check tension again. Repeat this step if necessary. If a belt is too tight, loosen (turn counterclockwise) theadjustment bolts one half turn and check the tension again. Repeat this step if necessary.
NOTICE: Bolts are turned counterclockwise only to decrease belt tension. Do not turn bolts counterclockwise to adjust belt alignment.

Correct a Hesitating or Slipping Belt
A problem with the belt, drive shaft, or improper lubrication of the deck surface can cause the belt to slip or hesitate.
Do the following test to fnd the cause:
1. Stand beside the TreadClimber ftness machine and set the speed to 2 mph (3.2 kmh).
2. Hold the handlebar for support, and step on one treadle with enough pressure to try to stop the belt from moving. If the roller at the back end of the treadle is still rolling, adjust the Walking Belt. If the roller stops, adjust the Drive Belt.
Adjust the Walking Belt:
1. Turn the tension adjustment bolts on both sides of the front rollers with 3/16” hex key to adjust the Walking Belt tension.
2. Turn each adjustment bolt clockwise in half turn increments to tighten the belt.
3. Restart the machine after each half turn adjustment to see if the belt still slips.
4. Repeat these steps if necessary. If the belt still slips after several adjustments, stop and refer to the “Adjust the Drive Belt” section.
Adjust the Drive Belt:
1. Make sure that the Shipping Bolt has been removed from the bottom of the machine .

2. Disconnect the machine from the power source and wait for at least 5 minutes.
3. Remove the left plastic drive cover to get access to the “v” Drive Belt .

4. Tighten the nut on the motor tension bolt located on the front side of the motor in 1/2 turn increments.

Check Drive Belt tension after each full turn:

Belt should feel taut, with 1/8” - 1/2” deflection when pressed at the midpoint.
OR
Carefully twist the belt at the midpoint . It should turn 90 degrees (to vertical), no farther.
DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN.

5. Replace the plastic drive cover

Calibration (TC3000 and TC5000 only)
The TreadClimber  Model TC3000 and TC5000 must be calibrated after replacing a component such as a belt or motor, or after a power outage.
Calibrating the TC3000 and TC5000 is an important part of troubleshooting and maintenance.
1. Plug the power cord into a wall outlet and turn on the power switch.
2. Stand on the side foot support platforms or beside the machine. DO NOT STAND ON THE WALKING BELTS.
3. Press and hold down the POWER and SLOWER buttons.
4. Insert the Safety Key.
Note: If the Safety Key is not fully inserted into the safety keyhole, the TreadClimber  ftness machine will NOT power up.
5. Release the POWER and SLOWER buttons. The TIME display will show “CAL”, “PrSS”, “Strt”.
6. Press the START/STOP button to start the calibration .
Note: The belts will start and stop and the displays will show various numbers that relate to calibration -do NOT interrupt calibration.
7. Calibration will take about 30 seconds. When calibration has completed satisfactorily, “CAL PASS” or “CAL DONE” will show in the TIME display.
8. Remove and re-insert the Safety Key to clear the displays.
Note: During calibration, the 100 ft (30 m) LED on the TC5000 signifes the belt speed sensor, and 1000 ft (305 m) LED is the step sensor. Some models of the TC3000 will show the step sensor in the DISTANCE window as a heart and the speed sensor in the SPEED window as a heart.
Explanation of Calibration Display Messages
(for information only):
During calibration, the TIME display will show the status of the calibration process. When there is no text message in the TIME display window, the other displays will show the following:
# HEART RATE (TC5000 Only) – will show the status of the motor control relay.
# ON signifes the power relay is on and energizing the motor.
# OFF signifes the motor control relay is off and not energizing the motor.
# CALORIES/CAL PER MIN – will show the version number of the software.
# TIME – will show either a text message regarding autocalibration (“d0nE”, “Strt”, etc.) or the actual Pulse Width
Modulation (PWM) number. PWM is a number that provides digital information about base unit functions to the console
when START/STOP, FASTER or SLOWER is pressed during calibration.
# MILES/TOTAL STEPS (DISTANCE/MILES for TC3000) – will show the calibration of the total step count.
# SPEED – will display the actual belt speed during the calibration function.

Error code E1
(TC 1000 only)
1. If belts move prior to the error, check speed sensor for proper position. Correct the position if necessary, and make sure the sensor wire is connected.
2. Turn power off and back on, then check if error persists.
3. Turn power off and back on again. If belt does not start, refer to “TC 1000 Belts Won’t Start” in the Mechanical Troubleshooting section.
4. If belt starts but stops again and displays the E1 error, replace the upper console and 49 inch I/O cable.
5. If the above steps do not correct the problem, replace the MCB.

Xbox 360 Kinect – Disassembling procedure

There's a rubber pad between us and the insides of the Kinect. Let's take care of that...
The motorized base can rotate the top sensor bar to track you as you dance around the room. That sounds useful, but we're wary of mechanical parts that are prone to failure.
The plastic base is secured with a quartet of T6 Torx screws.
After removing the plastic base, there are another four Phillips #0 screws to remove.
Notice that Microsoft's already up to revision H. If this is launch day, what happened to revisions A through G?
The Kinect's motor and gears don't appear too robust.
About the size of an American quarter, the base has a tiny motor with three fragile plastic gears.
Barring overheating issues with the top unit, we're guessing this motor assembly will be the Kinect's weak point.
Do not physically force the Kinect into a specific position - allow it to automatically calibrate its aim.
With a metal spudger and some pretty serious prying, we were able to remove the bottom grille. This is not easy, as Microsoft applied adhesive quite liberally.
The Microsoft team built the Kinect around PrimeSense's Reference Design.
Microsoft hasn't acquired Primesense yet. This indicates to us that as impressive as the hardware is, Microsoft's software is doing the heavy lifting, turning the sensor bar's array of data into a 3D mesh of your spatial position.
Microsoft used T10 Torx security screws. That's not very nice. We're up to three types of screws already, and we haven't even got this open yet.
The innocent looking Xbox 360 sticker acts as cover for the third screw on each side of the Kinect.
Success! Now the fun really begins! Most of the Xbox's processing power is dedicated to gaming, so Kinect preprocesses the image prior to sending it on to the Xbox. Kinect condenses all the information it collects about your living room into two things: a color image and a depth map.
Kinect's slim form factor has forced Microsoft to split up the main board, stacking three boards vertically like a small apartment building.
There's a fan at the far end of the Kinect. It's aligned to suck air in one side of the Kinect and push it out the other.
Two cameras and an IR projector. Left: (IR CMOS) Microsoft / X853750001 / VCA379C7130
Center: (Color CMOS) VNA38209015
Right: (IR Projector) OG12 / 0956 / D306 / JG05A
This picture is of the device upside down, so these labels are swapped from what you would see looking at the Kinect.
These are not tiny, cell-phone cameras— they're closer to the camera you might find in a webcam, with large lenses and autofocus.
We can't independently confirm the resolution of the cameras yet, but Microsoft claims that the infrared cam is 320x240 and the RGB cam is 640x480.
This is a Prime Sense diagram explaining how their reference platform works. The Kinect is the first (and only) implementation of this platform.
One camera (and one IR transmitter) provide input for the depth map (rumored to be just 320x240), while the third camera detects the human visual spectrum at 640x480 resolution.
We have heard claims that the system can measure distance within 1cm of accuracy at two meters. While that's great in concept, early reviews are showing that you don't get anywhere near that accuracy in the real world - yet.
All four microphones connect to the motherboard with a single cable connector.
After removing three connectors and seven T10 Torx screws, the top board can be separated from the other two boards.
After heating up the adhesive on the heat sink with a heat gun, a spudger may be used to pry it off the motherboard with little trouble.
The brains of the Kinect. The folks at UBM TechInsights helped us identify many of these chips. You can see a high resolution scan of this board here.
Wolfson Microelectronics WM8737G- Stereo ADC with microphone preamp
Fairchild Semiconductor FDS8984 - N-Channel PowerTrench MOSFET NEC uPD720114 - USB 2.0 hub controller
H1026567 XBOX1001 X851716-005 GEPP (Help us identify this 6 mm x 4.9 mm SAP package. Possibly SPI flash, maybe Atmel)
Marvell AP102 – SoC with Camera interface controller Hynix H5PS5162FF 512 megabit
DDR2 SDRAM
Analog Devices AD8694 – Quad, Low Cost, Low Noise, CMOS Rail to-Rail Output Operational Amplifier
TI ADS7830I - 8-Bit, 8-Channel Sampling A/D Converter with I2C Interface
Allegro Microsystems A3906 – Low Voltage Stepper and Single/Dual DC Motor Driver
ST Microelectronics M29W800DB - 8 Mbit (1Mb x8 or 512Kb x16) NV Flash Memory
PrimeSense PS1080-A2 – SoC image sensor processor
This board features a TI TAS1020B USB audio controller front and center.
A Kionix MEMS KXSD9 accelerometer is probably used for inclination and tilt sensing, and possibly image stabilization. The Kinect also uses this to know if the sensor has been moved externally
The further inside Kinect we go, the more connected we feel to it.
Here we discovered three of the four microphones inside of the Kinect. There are a total of four downward facing microphones: three on the right side and one on the left side. Microsoft determined that the best orientation for optimal sound gathering would be downward facing.
In order to properly recognize voice commands, the Kinect must perform an audio calibration for the room that its in. However, if you alter the arrangement of the furniture in your room, you must re-calibrate.
This board is held in place by four standoffs. We used needle-nosed pliers, but a 5 mm nut driver would be the right tool for the job.
Our friends at Adafruit have posted a $2,000 bounty for the first team to write an open source driver for Kinect. The Wiimote has been tremendously useful for our hobby robotics projects, and the Kinect's advanced sensors could really jump-start robotics research.
Finally! We're able to remove the power/data cord from the shell of the Kinect. Microsoft is using a USB-like connector for the Kinect. The Kinect uses 12 watts, which is quite a bit more than 2.5 watts of power provided by a standard USB port.
In the midst of an array of complex sensors and transducers, we remove the status indicator LED.
After removing several more screws, the two cameras and the IR transmitter easily lift off the metal backing bar.
Another component is sandwiched between the IR Projector and the metal backing bar. This is likely a Peltier Device used for cooling the IR projector.
The two cameras and the IR Projector, side by side. By having the depth-of-field camera and the RGB camera a calculated distance apart, the Kinect is able to perform immediate, 3D incorporation of real objects into on-screen images.
Having no form of user input other than voice commands and gestures, the crux of the Kinect's input system is the sensor system, comprised of the microphones and cameras.

Apple iPhone 4S – How to replace the Volume Buttons

Before disassembling your iPhone, be sure it is powered off.
Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe P2 screws next to the dock connector.
During reassembly, we recommend you replace the 5-point screws with equivalent Phillips screws.
The 5-Point Screwdriver should only be used once, as it has the potential to strip the screws.
Push the rear panel toward the top edge of the iPhone.
The panel will move about 2 mm.
Pull the rear panel away from the back of the iPhone, being careful not to damage the plastic clips attached to the rear panel.
Remove the rear panel from the iPhone.
Remove the following screws securing the battery connector to the logic board:
One 1.7 mm Phillips screw
One 1.5 mm Phillips screw.
Use a plastic opening tool to gently detach the battery connector from the socket on the device.
Start lifting off the connector from the bottom side, by placing the tip of the tool between the loudspeaker enclosure and the metal cover of the connector.
The battery connector comes off vertically from the logic board. Do not apply force sideways.
Pay attention to the pressure contact underneath the top screw of the battery connector. This may come loose while prying the battery connector from its socket.
Use a plastic opening tool to pull the pressure contact from underneath the battery connector.
When reinstalling the pressure contact, be sure to clean it with a degreaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to create wireless interference.
Take notice of the position of the small black ground clip on the upper screw of the battery connector. This clip is attached only by the upper screw. When reinstalling, it must be aligned so the gold contact point will press against the back cover.
Be careful not to rip off the battery connector socket soldered on the logic board. There are 4 very small soldering points awaiting this mistake!
Insert the edge of a plastic opening tool between the battery and the outer case near the bottom of the iPhone.
Run the plastic opening tool along the right edge of the battery and pry up at several points to completely separate it from the adhesive securing it to the outer case.
Use the exposed clear plastic pull tab to peel the battery off the adhesive securing it to the iPhone.
Be careful not to pull the plastic pull tab too hard as it can be ripped off very easily. Remove the battery.
Perform a hard reset after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.
Remove the three 1.5 mm Phillips screws securing the volume button bracket to the outer case.
Pull the volume bracket slightly away from the outer case.
Use a pair of tweezers to remove the volume buttons from the iPhone.